After leaving the Yeniköy dock we enter the final leg of the Scenic Bosphorus Cruise. There were plenty of sightseeing spots to look for during the cruise on the lower Bosphorus and the middle Bosphorus, and in that respect the upper Bosphorus may seem a little disappointing. But don’t be fooled by the shorter highlights list below (the place marks refer to their locations on the map below). Views of the Black Sea and the Istanbul strait from the Genoese Castle on the Anadolu Kavağı shore are spectacular. You can also explore the village itself a bit or try out one of the many fish restaurants for lunch or dinner.

• Beykoz – The biggest features of this fishing village are the İshak Ağa Çeşmesi, an elegant ablution fountain (1746) on the village square, and some excellent fish restaurants. From now on you can focus on the European shore, since most of the land from Beykoz until Anadolu Kavağı (the last stop) belongs to the military.
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  The Huber Mansion

  Huber Mansion (Huber Köşkü) – This 19th century yalı, designed by D’Aronco, currently belongs to the government and is an official residence of the Turkish president.

• Tarabya Bay – A little cove which used to be frequented by aristocrats for its healthy water and climate. Today, the area is still rather exclusive, but the focus lies on the rather pricy (fish) restaurants.
• Sarıyer – The first of the three docks where the ferry will land during its cruise on the upper Bosphorus. It is also the biggest village of this final leg. Wandering around the streets and eating in one of the fish restaurants (turn right) is a pleasant experience.
• Rumeli Kavağı – I personally never disembarked at this last stop on the European shore. Why? Simply because it doesn’t seem to be an attractive or lively place, with the only attraction the fish restaurants that are line-up by the waterfront.
• 

  Fish restaurants in Anadolu Kavağı

  Anadolu Kavağı – This is the last stop of the ferry, before it returns back to the city center following the exact same route in the opposite direction. Do get off the ferry here to wander around in this cozy little village, climb up to Anadolu Kavağı Kalesi and/or grab a bite in one of the many fish restaurants. Whatever you decide to do, make sure you don’t miss the last ferry back! And in case you ended up here with the nightly Bosphorus tour, you only just have enough time to grab a bite so don’t stall deciding what restaurant to take. I tried a few already, and they more or less all serve the same (quality of) food.
  If you’re up for it, take the walk (under 1 hour) to the ruins of the medieval castle or alternatively take a taxi. The fortress was built by the Byzantines, occupied and reinforced by the Genoese in 1350, and later seized by the Ottomans. Once there, you can enjoy spectacular views of the Black Sea.

View Highlights on the Upper Bosphorus in a larger map

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The second leg of the Scenic Bosphorus Cruise Tour is certainly as entertaining as the first part, if not better! Why? While cruising on the lower Bosphorus, you see tourist attractions that you probably will visit later or visited already. The sightseeing spots on the middle Bosphorus are located a bit further from the city center and thus off the beaten tourist track. Be on the lookout for landmarks such as the Fortress of Europe, İstinye Bay, various beautiful mansions, Yeniköy and of course the second Bosphorus Bridge. Look for their respective place marks () on the Bosphorus map at the end of the article.

• Red Mansion (Kırmızı Yalı) – Built in 1790, it is not only one of the oldest mansions, it is also still painted in the authentic rust read color known as ‘Ottoman Rose’.
• Egyptian Consulate – Another beautiful mansion (yalı), commissioned by the Khedive of Egypt at the beginning of the 20th century. Pay attention to the Art Nouveau influenced ornaments. It currently serves as the Egyptian Consulate, hence lost a bit of its grace with the installation of modern technologies.
• 

  Bebek, Istanbul

  Bebek – If you cruise on the Bosphorus by night, look out for the small white lighthouse on the European shore since the cozy seaside village of Bebek is next up. With plenty of nice restaurants, shops and cafes lined up by the waterfront, Bebek is one of the most trendy and fashionable villages.

• Küçüksu Palace (Küçüksu Kasrı) – Although this is a rather small palace to Ottoman standards, you really can’t miss it. Completed in 1857, sultans used it for short stays while picnicking, visiting the Sweet Waters of Asia (see below) or during their hunting trips. It undoubtedly has one of the most appealing facades on the Bosphorus, certainly after it was completely restored and opened to the public in 1994.
• 

  Sweet Waters of Asia

  Sweet Waters of Asia – This is the name given to the Göksu and Küçüksu rivers. During the Ottoman era, the aristocrats used to dress-up to row their boats and gather on both rivers. Today, the green banks accommodate several cafes and restaurants.

• Fortress of Anatolia (Anadolu Hisarı) – This was the first of the two fortresses built on the banks of the narrowest point of the Bosphorus. The Fortress of Asia was commissioned by Sultan Beyazit I in 1391.
• Fortress of Europe (Rumeli Hisarı) – The second fortress, built in only 4 months, was ready to serve Mehmet the Conqueror’s siege of Constantinople in 1452. Thanks to both fortresses, he was able to control all traffic on the Bosphorus and cut of supplies by sea. Today the Fortress of Europe is open to the public and occasionally serves as an open-air performance venue.
• Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin Paşa Mansion (Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin Paşa Yalı) – Built by the grand vizier Amcazade Köprülü Hüseyin Pasha in 1699 and located just before the second Bosphorus Bridge on the Asian side, this is the oldest surviving yalı. It unfortunately shows its age!
• Second Bosphorus Bridge (Fatih Sultan Mehmet Köprüsü) – The bridge, 510 m long and 39 m wide, is named after the 15th century Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, who took Constantinople and ended the Byzantine Empire. The bridge is in service since 1988.
• 

  The Ethem Pertev Yalı

  Ethem Pertev Mansion (Ethem Pertev Yalı) – This mansion, which dates back to 1908, is recognizable by its boathouse and Baroque influences in the form of wood carved balconies.

• Kanlıca Dock (Kanlıca İskelesi) – This is the first of two docks in the middle Bosphorus where the ferry stops to let people on and off. Kanlıca is best known for its delicious creamier type of yoghurt.
• İstinye Bay (İstinye Koyu) – This is the biggest natural Bosphorus inlet, serving as a yacht marina.
• Sait Halim Paşa Mansion (Sait Halim Paşa Yalı) – Just before landing at the Yeniköy dock, look for the house with white shutters and two stone lions on the quay.
• Yeniköy Dock (Yeniköy İskelesi)- The second dock in this part of the Bosphorus cruise. Don’t get off. Just admire the largest concentration of restored waterfront mansions (yalı) before the ferry departs for the third and last part of the Bosphorus tour.

View Highlights on the Middle Bosphorus in a larger map

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The lower Bosphorus is the first leg of the Scenic Bosphorus Tour. In this article well cover the highlights you can see on the shores of the lower part of the Bosphorus strait after boarding the IDO ferry at the docks of Eminönü. Be on the lookout for landmarks such as the Leander’s Tower, Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace, Çirağan Palace, Ortaköy, various mansions and of course the first Bosphorus Bridge. Look for their respective place marks () on the Bosphorus map at the end of the article.

• Look Back! – A few minutes after the ferry leaves the docks of Eminönü, look back and enjoy Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque all together in one view.
• Leander’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) – Look for the white tower standing proud on the small island in the middle of the Bosphorus, close to the shore of Üsküdar. For centuries it used to be a lighthouse, but today it houses a popular (and pricy) café and restaurant.


Dolmabahçe Palace by night.

• Dolmabahçe Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı) – This is Turkey’s largest mono-block palace and Istanbul’s first European-style palace, extravagant because of its size and ornaments. This was the house of the last six Ottoman sultans and also where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk carried out some of his most important reforms and died in 1938.
• Iskele Mosque (İskele Camii) – This mosque was built by Mimar Sinan in 1548 and is a landmark of Üsküdar. İskele is Turkish for pier or dock, so the obvious name for a mosque sitting next to the Üsküdar ferry landing.
• Mimar Sinan University (Mimar Sinan Üniversitesi) – A Turkish state university teaching fine arts.
• Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi) – If you’re into boats, this is a museum to add to your to-see-list. It houses a massive collection of Ottoman caiques as well as model ships, along with an extensive collection of maritime items. Top of the bill are booty captured from British and French warships sunk during World War I, the battle flag of the pirate Barbarossa and memorabilia from the Savarona, Atatürk’s yacht.
• Beşiktaş Dock (Beşiktaş İskelesi) – This is the only dock in the lower Bosphorus where the ferry stop to let people on and off. Do stay seated!


The Çırağan Palace

• Çırağan Palace (Çırağan Sarayı) – The Çırağan Palace (1867) was commissioned by Sultan Abdülaziz and is the last of the Ottoman imperial palaces. A big fire destroyed the interior of the palace in 1910. In 1989 the Kempinski chain restored the building and made a luxurious 5-star hotel of it.


The Fetih Ahmet Paşa Yalı.

• Fethi Ahmet Paşa Mansion (Fethi Ahmet Paşa Yalı) – This mansion or yalı, also known as the pembe yalı (pink mansion) because of its exterior color, was built in the late 18th century.
• Ortaköy – This is one of Istanbul’s most relaxing towns, not in the least for the narrow car-free cobblestone streets and waterfront square, filled with restaurants, cafes and bars. A great way to escape to the busy city life, except on weekends when there is a popular (crowded) craft market.
• Mecidiye Mosque (Mecidiye Camii) – This mosque serves not only as a landmark of Ortaköy, it is also one of the most prominent and elegant Bosphorus spots. The original mosque was built in the 18th century, but the current version dates back to 1856 and was ordered by Sultan Abdülmecid.
• The Bosphorus Bridge (Boğaziçi Köprüsü) – Built in 1973, this was the first bridge over the Bosphorus and is often referred to by locals as such. It is 1,5 km long and the deck is 39 meters wide. The clearance of the bridge from sea level is 64 meters. Since April 2007, a fully computerized LED lighting system of changing colors and patterns illuminates the bridge at night.


Beylerbeyi Palace in Istanbul

• Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı) – This summer residence was ordered by Sultan Abdülaziz in 1861. Pay special attention to the two extraordinary marble bathing pavilions at both ends on the shore: one for men and the other for the harem women.
• Sadullah Paşa Mansion (Sadullah Paşa Yalısı) – Another example of the mansions built by the Ottoman aristocracy. This one dates back to 1783 and is painted red-brown.
• Galatasaray Island (Galatasaray Adası) – This small island, just in front of the Kuruçeşme shore and also reffered to as Buz Ada, was acquired by the sports club in 1957. With its swimming pool, is was home to the Galatasaray water polo team until 1968. Today it is known for its receation and entertainment facilities including a pool and several bars and restaurants, all offering a magnificent view.
• Kuleli Military School (Kuleli Askeri Lisesi) – The first military high school of Turkey, founded in September 21, 1845.
• Arnavutköy – Translated from Turkish, Arnavutköy means ‘Albanian Village’. This is misleading because the current population is predominantly Turkish, and during the Ottoman Empire its inhabitants were Greek and Armenian. Just enjoy the abundance of mansions on the shore.

Make sure you don’t miss these spots of the middle Bosphorus during your cruise!

View Highlights on the Lower Bosphorus in a larger map

[Photo Credit: Randomil]

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No Istanbul experience is complete without a cruise up the Bosphorus. A bold statement? Sure, but in my opinion, it is as crucial as visiting any of the other major sightseeing spots. Certainly from June to September it’s one of Istanbul’s greatest pleasures. There are several ways to take a tour on the Bosphorus. But take my advice, don’t get tempted by the private bout tour offers ‘hustlers’ on the docks of Eminönü make. There is no better deal than the Scenic Bosphorus Tour operated by IDO – Istanbul’s Fast Ferry and Seabus Company. And did you know they also offer an unmissable night cruise on the Bosphorus?

Bosphorus Details

With two shores laden with highlights over a 32 km stretch, I decided to break up the more detailed descriptions of the Bosphorus and its main attractions in the following pages:

• Do You Know These Bosphorus Facts and Figures?
• Map of the Scenic Bosphorus Tour Ferry Route
• Cruise Highlights of the Lower Bosphorus
• Don’t Miss These Spots of the Middle Bosphorus during Your Cruise
• Cruising On the Upper Bosphorus towards the Black Sea
• Bosphorus Tour Video Gallery

Bosphorus Cruises (Boğaz Turu)

As I said before, stay clear of the private companies that offer cruises on the Bosphorus. They are overpriced, offer smaller tours and operate boats that often barely look seaworthy. Instead, either opt for tours provided by Turyol or IDO, where the latter has my preference.

IDO Scenic Bosphorus Tour (IDO Boğaziçi Özel Gezi)

The IDO dock in Eminönü.

Standing in Eminönü facing the Galata Tower, you’ll find the IDO Bosphorus Tour dock on the right-hand side of the Galata Bridge. The full cruise takes you for TL 20 from Eminönü to the Black Sea and back. Each way takes about 90 minutes, but you also want to get off the boat and spend some time in Anadolu Kavağı (the last stop, close to the Black Sea). There you can have lunch in one of the many fish restaurants and/or visit the fortress. So don’t throw away your boat ticket, because you’ll need it to board the ferry again after your excursion.

Every day, there are three boats going in the direction of the Black Sea, and of course three boats back. You can get on and off the ferry at either of the following docks, but to make the most of your trip I suggest starting in either Eminönü or Kabataş. Please note that the timetables below are only valid from 15 June to 23 September 2009.

Not applicable on Saturdays and Sundays
Applicable on Saturdays and Sundays

IDO Scenic Bosphorus Tour by Night (IDO Boğaziçi Özel Gezi)

The Dolmabahçe Palace at night.

If you ask me, this one really is top of the bill. From 1 July until 21 August, every Saturday you can make a nightly cruise on the Bosphorus. The ferry heads for the Black Sea just before the sun starts to set. Once in Anadolu Kavağı, you have 70 minutes to go ashore and enjoy a dinner in one of the many fish restaurants.

By the time you board the ferry again, darkness has fallen and you’ll enjoy the Bosphorus by night, in all its grace with nicely lit monuments and a variety of city lights, including the Bosphorus Bridge. So, for a mere TL 20, you get to see both shapes of the Bosphorus in one cruise.

Make sure though not to miss the boat back at 22:00, it really is the last boat!

Turyol Bosphorus Tour (Turyol Boğaz Turu)

If you’re pressed for time or don’t fancy a long cruise on the Bosphorus, then you may want to check out Turyol. They are located on the left-hand side of the Galata Bridge. For TL 9 Turyol takes you on a 90 minutes Bosphorus trip to the second bridge and back. From 12:00 onwards (11:00 on Saturdays and 10:00 on Sundays), boats depart approximately every hour. The last boat leaves the docks at 20:00.

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The Turkish Grand Prix will take place on June 7 2009 and is the seventh Grand Prix of the 2009 Formula One World Championship. The venue for this Formula One motor race, which debuted on August 25 2005, is Istanbul Park (Istanbul Parkı), also known as Istanbul Racing Circuit. Drivers and spectators alike praise this state-of-the art counter-clockwise racetrack. Formula 1 supremo Bernie Ecclestone has even called it “the best race track in the world”. If you are a Formula 1 fan (and happen to be in Istanbul), this is an event you simply can’t afford to miss.

Istanbul Park Race Track Characteristics

Istanbul Park racetrack layout.

The newly built Istanbul Park race circuit is located in Pendik on the Asian side of Istanbul. It was constructed by the famous German civil engineer Hermann Tilke, who had a hand in the Austrian A1-Ring changes, previously built the Sepang International Circuit in Malaysia and the Bahrain International Circuit of Bahrain. The circuit is one of only three circuits on the Formula One Grand Prix calendar that runs counter-clockwise, the others being the Interlagos circuit and the Singapore Street Circuit.

The Istanbul Park racetrack follows the contours of the land, hence runs over four different ground levels. The circuit is 5.338 km long, with a start/finish straight of 650 m and a total of 16 corners. In particular Turn Eight (a fast, sweeping corner with four apexes) has been appraised by the drivers. Also notable is Turn One, a sharp downhill left-hander immediately after the front straight.

The Istanbul Park racetrack has a total capacity of 155.000 spectators, of which 25.000 can find a seat on the main grandstand.

Istanbul Park Driver Quotes

“It is an amazing track to drive, with so many different challenges, and overtaking is possible. The circuit is pretty wide, which always helps when you are trying to pass. It is a very physically demanding circuit, all the fast corners, such as Turn Eight which is awesome and flat out, and the heat place a big demand on the drivers.” ~ Lewis Hamilton, McLaren

“I am looking forward to Turkey, which will always have a special significance for me, as it was in Istanbul that I got my first ever Grand Prix victory. I love the track and the city. Istanbul Park is a really great track and everyone talks about Turn Eight, which is definitely one of the best corners of the season. I like this corner, and it is really challenging.” ~ Felipe Massa, Ferrari

The grandstand of the Turkish Formula One Grand Prix in Istanbul Park, Turkey.

“The track is great to drive, with some sections that are really on the limit and what you want to race on as a driver, Turn Eight in particular. We race anti-clockwise and this also adds a challenge. The final factor is that the track is one of the fastest circuits on the calendar, with long fast corners.” ~ Fernando Alonso, McLaren

“The Turkish Grand Prix has quickly become one of my favorite races on the F1 calendar. The track layout is excellent with a challenging combination of long straights, tight hairpins and the very high-speed Turn Eight. The changes in elevation also contribute to making it a fun circuit for the drivers. There are some really good overtaking opportunities at Turn One and Turn Three. You really need to consciously push hard all the way round and use the track’s camber to your full advantage.” ~ Jenson Button, Honda

Previous Winners of the Turkish Formula One Grand Prix

2009 – Jenson Button (Brawn GP)
2008 – Felipe Massa (Ferrari)
2007 – Felipe Massa (Ferrari)
2006 – Felipe Massa (Ferrari)
2005 – Kimi Räikkönen (McLaren-Mercedes)

Getting To Istanbul Park

Istanbul Park is located in Pendik on the Asian side of Istanbul, around 55 km east of the city centre (Taksim). It is adjacent to the newly constructed Sabiha Gökçen International Airport and is surrounded by forests and fields.

Although it is close to the junction of Kurtköy on the north side of the TEM Motorway, linking Istanbul to Ankara, I strongly advice neither to go by car nor to hire a car for the occasion. On normal days, traffic in Istanbul is already hectic and clogged, so you can imagine what it will look like on a race day.

The best alternative is to take a sea bus from Kabataş to Pendik, where you can hop on special shuttle busses. On race days, there are also municipal buses available various points in and around Istanbul, including Ataturk Airport, Taksim Square, Mecidiyeköy, Kadıköy, Bostancı and Pendik.

[Photo Credit: Will Pittenger]

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Inaugurated on 17 January 1875, Istanbul’s Tunnel (Tünel) is the world’s shortest and third-oldest passenger terminal, after the underground systems of London and New York. This one-stop funicular climbs the steeply uphill for 500 meters from Karaköy to Tünel Square at the southern end of Istiklal Caddesi in the Beyoğlu district. Only recently, after five months of renovations, it’s back in service and polished to a new shine.

Obtaining Permission to Build the Tunnel

Tünel is actually and initiative of the French engineer Eugene Henri Gavand. He observed people shuttling between Galata (today Karaköy) and Pera (today Beyoğlu). In those days, people used to work in the low Galata (the center of trade, stock exchange and customs) and live in the uphill Pera with its hotels, embassies and dwellings. The French engineer therefore thought of an alternative way of connecting those two districts of then Constantinople, hence saving people the difficult walk of climbing 60 meters.

He was accepted by Sultan Abdülaziz of the Ottoman Empire to present his elevating railway project to connect both districts. He could convince the sultan, who granted Eugene Henri Gavand permission for his Tünel project on 10 June 1869.

Constructing Tünel

The actual construction of Tünel started on 30 June 1871, and was completed on 5 December 1874. The tunnel consists of two trains running simultaneously on the same track, with only a short duplex part of the track in the middle, where two trains pass side by side and continue their ways to opposite directions. The installation was powered by two steam engines of 150 HP. The original wooden wagons used to have both sides open and were illuminated by gas lamps as no electricity was available in those years.

To convince the public of the railway’s safety, the initial runs were carried out with animals on board only. Only after a magnificent inauguration ceremony with the participation of distinguished native and foreign guests on 17 January 1875 the normal runs to serve people started.

The Tunnel throughout the Years

Tünel was out of operation for about 3,5 months during the Second World War due to a shortage of spare parts. It was completely renovated to its present structure by a French company called Electro Entreprise. After 96 years of service, the nostalgic wooden carriages were replaced by modern metal versions. However, the red-beige paintings reconstructing the timber claddings still evoke the old days of the railway.

Currently, the two steel cars, each 16 meters long and on pneumatic tires, run simultaneously in opposite directions, carrying a total of 170 people in 90 seconds over a distance of 573 meters. At cruising speed, the train goes approximately 25 km/h. The underground system is no longer powered by steam machines, but with a 350 HP electrical engine.

Tünel Today

Today, the tiny Tünel is still useful for most of Istanbul’s population. It is part of the municipal transport network and integrated tickets are valid. At the same time tourists are attracted by this combination of century-old history and modernity. Look for on the Map with Tourist Attractions in the Modern Part of Istanbul.

At the end of 2008, after five months of renovations, Tünel is certainly worth using and/or visiting. The Karaköy station, set back from the main road just off the Galata Bridge, is by far the nicer of the two. Traditional Turkish tiles patterned with blue-white tulips and quaint but huge pictures of the Galata Tower, Hagia Sophia and other sights welcome passengers.

The best way to get there is via the underpass at the end of the Galata Bridge. Look for the exit/entrance marked Tünel (see picture). To board it (at either station), you will have to buy a token or use your akbil. Tünel operates from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. The maximum wait is two minutes.

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The Golden Horn (Haliç) is an inlet of the Bosphorus with two rivers draining into it at the far end. It is considered to be the world’s largest natural harbor and separates the European shore of Istanbul into two. The best places to observe the Golden Horn’s activity and grace are the Galata Bridge if you want ringside seats, and the Topkapi Palace or Pierre Loti Café if you prefer a bird’s-eye view.

A Chain to Protect the Golden Horn

As a natural and extremely secure harbor, the Golden Horn has played an important role in the development of Istanbul and was often the subject of attacks. With the absence of tides and currents, the Byzantine Empire had its naval headquarters in this 7,5 km long Bosphorus inlet.

To protect the city of Constantinople from naval attacks, two security measures were put into place. The first and predictable measure was the construction of walls along the shoreline. The second security measure however, consisted of pulling a huge iron chain from Constantinople to the old Galata Tower, hence preventing unwelcomed ships from entering the Golden Horn.

Only on three occasions, the chain across the Horn was either broken or circumvented:

• in the 10th century, the Kievan Rus’ dragged their ships out of the Bosporus, carried them around Galata and again launched them in the Golden Horn.
• in 1204, during the Fourth Crusade, Venetian ships were able to break the chain with a ram.
• in 1453, Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II also used the circumventing tactic by towing his ships across Galata by using greased logs since previous attempts to break the chain had failed.

The Golden Horn Today

From the 7th century BC onwards the banks of the Golden Horn have attracted settlers, enabling Constantinople to become a rich and powerful port. After the Conquest of Constantinople in 1453, there was an even bigger influx of Greek, Jew and Italian merchants as well as other non-Muslims.

For hundreds of years the city’s trade was conducted by ships that off-loaded their goods in warehouses lining the Golden Horn. Together with the warehouses, more and more nearby factories started to rise. Unfortunately, this industrial activity also heavily polluted the water of the Golden Horn.

Nowadays however, the (container) ships use the port on the Sea of Marmara and the pollution has been addressed. In recent years, over four thousand buildings on the shores of the Golden Horn have been demolished, the businesses moved to new centers outside the city, the shores turned into parks and gardens, and wastewater treated.

Both shores of the Golden Horn are connected by no less then four bridges. The most famous one is undoubtedly the Galata Bridge, which connects Eminönü with Galata. This bridge, with its lower deck of restaurants and bars, replaced the much-loved earlier pontoon bridge. This original Galata Bridge was reconstructed south of the Rahmi Koç Museum. In between these two bridges you’ll find the Atatürk Bridge. The fourth bridge – Fatih – is located deeper in the Golden Horn. A new pedestrian bridge, based on drawing created by Leonardo da Vinci in 1502, will soon be finished.

Why is it Called the Golden Horn?

There are two legends that explain the adjective ‘golden’. According to the first legend, the Byzantines threw so many valuables into it during the Ottoman Conquest that the waters glistened with gold.
The second and more plausible story says that name is given because of the gold light that seemingly comes out of the river when the sun goes down. A view you can’t afford to miss!

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In the days that the Orient Express still rolled into Istanbul, the Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı) was the most glamorous address on Istiklal Caddesi – or the whole Beyoğlu district for that matter. You can find it almost halfway Istiklal Caddesi, marked on Map with Tourist Attractions in the Modern Part of Istanbul
These days unfortunately have long gone. The theatre as well as the stylish shops and flats have been replaced by mediocre restaurants. Luckily its extraordinary architecture remains largely intact, making a small visit to the Flower Passage worthwhile.

Istanbul’s Most Important Cultural Center

The land of the Flower Passage was originally occupied by the famous Naum Theatre. Mihail Naum, the owner and administrator of the Naum Theatre, bought the building of Bosco Theatre. After small renovations the Théatre de Péra was opened in 1844. Lucrezia Borgia was the first opera that was staged.

The wood theatre building had to be rebuilt after a big fire and opened in 1849 as Théatre Italien Naum. Sultan Abdülhamid II and Sultan Abdülaziz of the Ottoman Empire attended several operas that were hosted there. Even before it was staged in Paris, Giuseppe Verdi’s famous opera II Trovatore was staged in this theatre which had become one of the most important cultural centers of Istanbul and Europe.

From Theatre to Flower Shops

Due to the great fire of Pera in 1870, the Naum Theatre collapsed. A Greek banker Hristaki Zargos bought the land and built a shopping arcade with flats designed by an Italian architect Cleanthy Zanno. There were 24 shops and 18 luxurious flats. The shopping arcade was called Hristaki Pasajı and the whole building was called Cité de Pera.

In the first years of the passage there were various shops, among which Acemyan’s tobacco shop, Maison Parret and Vallaury’s patisserie, Pandelis’s flower shop, Schumaher’s bakery, Keserciyan’s tailor shop, Yorgo’s tavern and Sideris’s fur shop.

In 1908 the building was bought by the Ottoman Grand Vizier Sait Paşa and it became known as the Sait Paşa Passage. After the 1917 Revolution of Russia, many noble Russian women, including baronesses, came to Istanbul and opened flower shops in Cité de Pera. Because of the presence of all those flower shops, the place became a flower auction place as well. Today people still refer to the arcade as the Çiçek Pasajı.

Çiçek Pasajı Today

Starting from the 1940s more and more pubs, wine houses and taverns opened their doors in the Çiçek Pasajı, which gradually made the florists and residents of the flats move out. Only the name of the passage survived.

The building underwent a major renovation in 1988 and re-opened with its restaurants, taverns and pubs. In 2005 the roof and all the other visual parts were restored. Today, with its brilliant architecture, the Flower Passage is still one of the most stylish buildings of Beyoğlu. According to a recent poll, the Flower Passage is the first thing that comes to ones mind when they think of Beyoğlu.

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The lively Nevizade Street (Nevizade Sokak) in Beyoğlu, located in the modern part of Istanbul, is where the party’s at, on any night of the week, winter or summer. A trip to Istanbul simply is not complete without having tasted the mezes (cold starters) in one of the many meyhanes (taverns), or having enjoyed a beer on the terraces of the various pubs.

The Most Atmospheric Eating Spot in Town

Nevizade is a small street parallel to Istiklal Caddesi, located behind the historical Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı) and easily accessible via the Fish Bazaar (Balık Pazarı). Marked with on the Map with Tourist Attractions in the Modern Part of Istanbul. While Nevizade is the name of the main street, it actually refers to whole nightlife area, including the maze of small streets connecting to it.

If Nevizade is not the most famous eating and drinking area of Istanbul, then it certainly is the liveliest. On any given night the streets are packed with people, young and old. All with the same goal – having a good time out while enjoying mezes or other small dishes, accompanied by alcoholic beverages – being it rakı, beer or wine.

Any Meyhane in Nevizade Will Do

As soon as you enter the Nevizade Street, waiters will try to convince you to pick their restaurant. Food wise you can’t go wrong in any of them. Just walk up and down the street first, and pick the one which offers you the most attractive table. Personally, I’m a regular of the Nevizade Restaurant.

In the meyhanes, musicians playing fasıl (mostly classical Turkish) music wander from table to table. Be aware though that it’s considered rude to have them play a few songs without tipping them (TL 10-15). So make sure to kindly decline their offer as soon as they approach your table if you’re not a big fan of the genre.

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Earlier we covered the most interesting spots on Istiklal Caddesi between Taksim Square and Galata Lisesi. Today we’ll take you from Galata Square to Tünel, the world’s second-oldest subway.

Once you’ve made it to the end of Istiklal Caddesi, I recommend you either walk back or take the old tram to the halfway point, and start looking for a nice café. Make sure though that it has one or more of these huge (removable) windows and find a table by the street side. Order a drink and enjoy watching the crowds pass by. After half an hour, you’ll have a great idea what the Istanbul population mix looks like.

Places of Interest on Istiklal Caddesi

• St. Antuan or Sant’Antonio di Padova Cathedral: the cathedral is located on the left-hand side, 200 meters away from the Galatasaray Lycée in the direction of Tünel. The cathedral has the largest building and community of the Roman Catholic Church in Istanbul. The first cathedral was built in 1725 by the local Italian community of Istanbul. The building we see today replaced the previous one and was built in the Venetian Neo-Gothic style between 1906 and 1912 by an Istanbul born, Italian architect Giulio Mogneri. The cathedral is run by Italian priests. On different days of the week the masses are in Italian, English and Turkish.
• Odakule İş Merkezi (Business Centre Tower): located at no. 142, on the right, you’ll find the Odakule İş Merkezi. The building was built by the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce. The building houses several holdings, companies and an art gallery. It is commonly used as a reference point to find an address around the area easily. Given its age, the tower is currently among Istanbul’s ugliest, making it hard to miss. Just in case, look for no. 142.
• Beyoğlu İş Merkezi Passage: across the Business Centre Tower, you will see the entrance of the Beyoğlu İş Merkezi, which is recently renovated passage with shops and offices. Right next to it you can find the entrance to the Midpoint café and restaurant.
• Consulate-General of Netherlands: the consulate is located on the left-hand side, at no. 197.
• Consulate-General of Russia: located at no. 443, 200 meters further than the Consulate-General of the Netherlands, again on the left.
• Consulate-General of Sweden: walk approximately 500 meters further than the Consulate-General of Netherlands, look for no 497.
• Tunnel (Tünel): 150 meters further than the Consulate-General of Sweden the street makes a small curve to the right. That’s it. You are at the end of Istiklal Caddesi where you can see the entrance of Tunnel (Tünel). It connects Beyoğlu with Karaköy.

Places of Interest just off Istiklal Caddesi

• Terkoz Çıkmazı: look for a small street across the Consulate-General of the Netherlands called Terkoz Çıkmazı. It’s a dead end street where you can find gazillions of textiles goods for quite cheap prices. However, look thoroughly for small defects and always remember to bargain.
• French Palace (Fransız Sarayı): take Yeni Çarşı Street which goes down the hill next to the Galatasaray Lycée. Look for the Nur-i Ziya Street, the second street on your left. On your left you will see Fransız Sarayı (French Palace). The land belongs to France for more than four centuries. The building on the land was built in 1839. Today its the Istanbul residence of the French Ambassador.
• Consulate-General of Italy: follow Yeni Çarşı Street which goes down the hill next to Galatasaray Lycée and walk approximately 600 meters. Take Tomtom Kaptan Street on your right. You will see Consulate-General of Italy at no 15, on your left.
• Pera Palace Hotel: follow the alley next to the Odakule Business Centre Tower, which will connect you to Meşrutiyet Street. Turn left at the point where you connect to the street and follow the street. Before the street ends on your left you will see the Pera Palas Otel which is the oldest European hotel of Turkey. The hotel was built in 1892 in order to host the passengers of the Orient Express. Agatha Christie wrote her most famous novel, Murder on the Orient Express, in this hotel, and her room is still conserved as a museum.
• Leb-i Derya: take Kumbaracı Yokuşu Street down the hill on your left just after you pass the Russian Consulate. 150 Meters down the hill on your right you will see the fabulous Leb-i Derya (no. 57/6).
• Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi: follow the Şahkulu Bostan Street on your left next to the Consulate-General of Sweden. On your right you will see the Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi (no 8). This former municipality wedding building is since 1993 used as a cultural center with a multi-purpose conference room, movie theatre, exhibition room and a theatre stage.
• German School Istanbul (Özel Alman Lisesi): take Şahkulu Bostan Street and go passed Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi. You will reach the Özel Alman Lisesi or Deutsche Schule Istanbul located at no. 20. The school started in 1868 with only 24 students. It has raised a lot of important people for Turkish society, among which journalists, musicians, artist, actors and politicians.
• Galata Mevlevihanesi: take the Galip Dede Street just after you pass the Consulate-General of Sweden. You will see the Galata Mevlevihanesi at no. 15. This dervish lodge, which is also used as a museum, was opened to the public in 1975.
• Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi): follow the Galip Dede Street just after you pass the Consulate-General of Sweden and keep on walking for approximately 500 meters down the hill. You will reach an intersection of streets, with on your right the Galata Tower which was first built in 1384 by Genoese. The cone-capped tower provides a magnificent view of the Golden Horn.

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