Once you’ve made it to the end of Istiklal Caddesi, I recommend you either walk back or take the old tram to the halfway point, and start looking for a nice café. Make sure though that it has one or more of these huge (removable) windows and find a table by the street side. Order a drink and enjoy watching the crowds pass by. After half an hour, you’ll have a great idea what the Istanbul population mix looks like.

Places of Interest on Istiklal Caddesi

• St. Antuan or Sant’Antonio di Padova Cathedral: the cathedral is located on the left-hand side, 200 meters away from the Galatasaray Lycée in the direction of Tünel. The cathedral has the largest building and community of the Roman Catholic Church in Istanbul. The first cathedral was built in 1725 by the local Italian community of Istanbul. The building we see today replaced the previous one and was built in the Venetian Neo-Gothic style between 1906 and 1912 by an Istanbul born, Italian architect Giulio Mogneri. The cathedral is run by Italian priests. On different days of the week the masses are in Italian, English and Turkish.
• Odakule İş Merkezi (Business Centre Tower): located at no. 142, on the right, you’ll find the Odakule İş Merkezi. The building was built by the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce. The building houses several holdings, companies and an art gallery. It is commonly used as a reference point to find an address around the area easily. Given its age, the tower is currently among Istanbul’s ugliest, making it hard to miss. Just in case, look for no. 142.
• Beyoğlu İş Merkezi Passage: across the Business Centre Tower, you will see the entrance of the Beyoğlu İş Merkezi, which is recently renovated passage with shops and offices. Right next to it you can find the entrance to the Midpoint café and restaurant.
• Consulate-General of Netherlands: the consulate is located on the left-hand side, at no. 197.
• Consulate-General of Russia: located at no. 443, 200 meters further than the Consulate-General of the Netherlands, again on the left.
• Consulate-General of Sweden: walk approximately 500 meters further than the Consulate-General of Netherlands, look for no 497.
• Tunnel (Tünel): 150 meters further than the Consulate-General of Sweden the street makes a small curve to the right. That’s it. You are at the end of Istiklal Caddesi where you can see the entrance of Tunnel (Tünel). It connects Beyoğlu with Karaköy.

Places of Interest just off Istiklal Caddesi

• Terkoz Çıkmazı: look for a small street across the Consulate-General of the Netherlands called Terkoz Çıkmazı. It’s a dead end street where you can find gazillions of textiles goods for quite cheap prices. However, look thoroughly for small defects and always remember to bargain.
• French Palace (Fransız Sarayı): take Yeni Çarşı Street which goes down the hill next to the Galatasaray Lycée. Look for the Nur-i Ziya Street, the second street on your left. On your left you will see Fransız Sarayı (French Palace). The land belongs to France for more than four centuries. The building on the land was built in 1839. Today its the Istanbul residence of the French Ambassador.
• Consulate-General of Italy: follow Yeni Çarşı Street which goes down the hill next to Galatasaray Lycée and walk approximately 600 meters. Take Tomtom Kaptan Street on your right. You will see Consulate-General of Italy at no 15, on your left.
• Pera Palace Hotel: follow the alley next to the Odakule Business Centre Tower, which will connect you to Meşrutiyet Street. Turn left at the point where you connect to the street and follow the street. Before the street ends on your left you will see the Pera Palas Otel which is the oldest European hotel of Turkey. The hotel was built in 1892 in order to host the passengers of the Orient Express. Agatha Christie wrote her most famous novel, Murder on the Orient Express, in this hotel, and her room is still conserved as a museum.
• Leb-i Derya: take Kumbaracı Yokuşu Street down the hill on your left just after you pass the Russian Consulate. 150 Meters down the hill on your right you will see the fabulous Leb-i Derya (no. 57/6).
• Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi: follow the Şahkulu Bostan Street on your left next to the Consulate-General of Sweden. On your right you will see the Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi (no 8). This former municipality wedding building is since 1993 used as a cultural center with a multi-purpose conference room, movie theatre, exhibition room and a theatre stage.
• German School Istanbul (Özel Alman Lisesi): take Şahkulu Bostan Street and go passed Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi. You will reach the Özel Alman Lisesi or Deutsche Schule Istanbul located at no. 20. The school started in 1868 with only 24 students. It has raised a lot of important people for Turkish society, among which journalists, musicians, artist, actors and politicians.
• Galata Mevlevihanesi: take the Galip Dede Street just after you pass the Consulate-General of Sweden. You will see the Galata Mevlevihanesi at no. 15. This dervish lodge, which is also used as a museum, was opened to the public in 1975.
• Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi): follow the Galip Dede Street just after you pass the Consulate-General of Sweden and keep on walking for approximately 500 meters down the hill. You will reach an intersection of streets, with on your right the Galata Tower which was first built in 1384 by Genoese. The cone-capped tower provides a magnificent view of the Golden Horn.

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This is the first of a two post series. In this post we’ll take you from Taksim Square to the Galata Square, and in the second post we’ll cover the area from Galata Square until Tünel.

Places of Interest on Istiklal Caddesi

• French Consulate General: the consulate is located on the right-hand side at the very beginning of Istiklal Caddesi, no. 8
• Hüseyin Ağa Mosque (Hüseyin Ağa Camii): 350 meters down the French Consulate on the right you will see the Hüseyin Ağa Camii, built in 1596. After surviving a big fire, it was restored in 1934. In the yard of the mosque you’ll find the graves of Hüseyin Ağa who had the mosque built and Davud Ağa, another Ottoman Empire Chief (Ağa) of the palace. There is also a fountain made by Mimar Sinan, the very famous Ottoman Empire architect.
• Ortaoyuncular Sahnesi: approximately 400 meters further, again on the right-hand side, you will see the Ortaoyuncular Sahnesi. This old theatre, originally called Ses Tiyatrosu, was built in 1885 by the architect Campanaki. It is located in Halep Passage, no. 140
• Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı): the Flower Passage - aka Cite de Pera - is considered as the most ornamented and well-known building in the Beyoğlu district. You can’t miss really, but just in case, look for no. 172.
• Galata Square (Galata Meydanı): this intersection of Istiklal Caddesi with Meşrutiyet Avenue and Yeni Çarşı Avenue, is located almost in the middle of Istiklal Caddesi, opposite to the Flower Passage.
• Galatasaray Lyceé (Galatasaray Lisesi): in 1481, during the reign of Bayezıd II., Galata Sarayı Hümayun Mektebi was established as a school to educate top level qualified people for the palace. Since 1868 the school is called Galatasaray Lycée (Galatasaray Lisesi) and an incredible amount of important people for the country graduated from this school, among which famous actors, writers, politicians, sportsmen, and journalists.
• Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim Tör Museum: on the other side of the Yeni Çarşı Street, across the Galatasaray Lycée, on the corner, you will see Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim Tör Müzesi, no. 285. The museum has besides the world’s 3rd biggest coin collection, metal, embroidery, fabric, manuscript, tombac, and rosary collections. It also has four different exhibitions of private collectors’ items. The entrance to the museum is free.

Places of Interest just off Istiklal Caddesi

• Hagia Triada: take Meşelik Street across French Consulate, and on your left you will find the Greek Orthodox Church Hagia Triada.
• Galatasaray Turkish Bath (Galatasaray Hamamı): take Turnacıbaşı Street just after you pass Halep Passage on your right, then take the street on the left. You will reach the historical Galatasaray Hamamı, a Turkish bath which was built in 1481 by the order of Ottoman Sultan Bayezıd II.
• Consulate-General of Greece: keep on walking on Turnacıbaşı Street, pass the Galatasaray Hamamı, and 200 meters further on your right you will reach the Consulate-General of Greece, no. 32.
• Nevizade: take the first street just after Halep Passage on your right, Balo Street, or the next one, Solakzade Street. Walk a little less than 200 meters after which you’ll reach the famous Nevizade Street on your left packed with pubs and restaurants. On your right, you will see the James Joyce Irish Pub.
• Fish Bazaar (Balık Pazarı): take the first street, Sahne Sokak, on your right next to the Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı) and you are in the Balık Pazarı.
• British Embassy: follow the Meşrutiyet Avenue across Galatasaray Lycée, which will lead you to the British Embassy on your left.

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Istiklal Caddesi before the foundation of Turkey

It wasn’t until the founding of the Republic of Turkey that this famous street received its third and present name. Originally the street was simply called Grand Avenue (Cadde-i Kebir). With the arrival and settlement of non-Muslims and European foreigners in the 17th century, Istiklal Caddesi was referred to as ‘Grand Rue de Pera’.

At the end of the 18th century French, English, Dutch, Greek, Venetian, Spanish, Russian, Swiss and Prussian diplomats built their winter manors in the area. Along with this multi-national population came the still existing variety in religious buildings such as the Roman Catholic churches of Santa Maria and St. Anthony of Padua Cathedral, the Greek Orthodox Haghia Triada, the Armenian Church, and many other churches and synagogues.

In the second half of the 19th century, due to the development of the transportation and increased foreign trade of the Ottoman Empire, the area between Taksim and Galatasaray improved and became a cosmopolite settlement for the merchants, businessmen, bankers, foreigners and rich people who followed the fashion in Paris. At the end of the century all basic facilities that a modern society requires such as water, gas and the tramway were constructed. Three theatres also simultaneously staged the most famous Paris plays of those times.

Istiklal Caddesi after the Republic of Turkey Was Founded

In the 20th century, the connection of the first electrical tramway from Taksim to Şişli made the Taksim-Galatasaray stretch more popular than the Galatasaray-Tünel part.
In the young Republic times Turkish businessmen replaced the foreigners. The Beyoğlu district, and Istiklal Caddesi in particular, became the most modern part of the city. It was the favorite spot of the intellectuals because of the cultural background and variety, together with the presence of renowned restaurants, patisseries, and luxurious shops. The whole street was considered so distinguished that people used to dress up to take a walk or do some shopping in the avenue.

In the 1950s, the influx of immigrants from Turkey’s rural parts to Istanbul caused a sudden, unanticipated growth and rapid urbanization of the city. New formed settlements and changes in the society’s culture made the Beyoğlu district and Istiklal Caddesi lose its crème de la crème profile.

Fortunately, today thanks to an inspired Beyoğlu Beautification Project by the municipality, together with its central location and historical background, the street has regained most of its former status. Istiklal Caddesi is again accepted as the center of the city and packed with people browsing the street with its renovated 19th century Turkish architecture buildings, countless shops and extremely vivid night life.

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There are two versions available: a Viddler (smaller in size) and a WVM version (bigger in size). The length of both movies is the same: 4:00 min.

Enjoy!

Viddler Version

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Hover over the pictures with your mouse pointer to see a brief description of the image. Click on the pictures to see a full-size version of it.
To close the full-size version, press either Escape or click on the close button.

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History of Taksim Square

Taksim is Arabic for ‘division’ or ‘distribution’. Originally Taksim Square was a water distribution center. In 1732 Sultan Mahmud I ordered the creation of a stone reservoir to collect the water coming from the Belgrade Forest, so it could be distributed to other parts of the city. This stone reservoir can still be seen at the beginning of Istiklal Caddesi.

Taksim Square Today

The Turkish word meydan is translated into English as ‘square’, but actually means ‘large open area’. And that’s really what Taksim Square is: a large open area consisting of two main parts.

First there is the rectangle shaped area, which serves as a busy hub. No longer for water though, but for public transportation. Not only is it the main transfer point for the municipal bus system, it’s also the starting point of the Istanbul metro with which you can go as far as 4.Levent or connect to the Kabataş tramway or seaport. And just 100 meters from Taksim Square, you’ll find the Havaş airport shuttle busses and various dolmuş.

Secondly, there is the triangle shaped area with its garden and the Cumhuriyet Anıtı (Republic Monument) standing in the middle of it. This monument, created by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica and unveiled in 1928, features Atatürk, his assistant and successor Ismet İnönü, and other revolutionary leaders. The plaza is also the terminus for the nostalgic tram that runs on Istiklal Caddesi, connecting you to Tünel.

Surrounding Taksim Square and Meeting Points

Taksim Square is surrounded by various landmarks. The prominent building at the far end of the rectangle is the Atatürk Cultural Centre (Atatürk Kültür Merkezi or simply AKM). Another famous landmark is the Marmara Hotel. Next to the square is an elevated green zone called Taksim Park, through which you can reach the Ceylan International Hotel and the Hyatt Regency.

Also noteworthy is McDonalds. It was the very first McDonalds restaurant to open its doors in Turkey, generating long queues at the time with grandfathers, all dressed-up, taking there grandchildren for a bite in the new tasty hamburger that hit the town. While at the subject of junk food, the various snack bars and junk food restaurants at the entrance of Istiklal Caddesi are also considered landmarks in the eyes of the locals. Not for their nouvelle cuisine obviously, but for a quick bite while staggering home after a great night out.

Taksim Square is also a popular meeting point. No need to stress out to be very specific about the exact location or building. Popular meeting points are the Republic Monument, and in front of Burger King or the French Embassy at the beginning of Istiklal Caddesi.

Police Presence, Demonstrations and Public Events

Don’t be intimidated by the round-the-clock police presence on Taksim Square. Being one of the busiest areas in town, people often want to (ab)use its visibility for the benefit of their cause by demonstrating on the square.

However, following many violent demonstrations, with the Taksim Square massacre of May 1st 1977 being the bloodiest and deadliest, all forms of group protests are banned from the square. Therefore, the police are at all times omnipresent on the square. Mostly moderate, but on some occasions you can see riot-police and armored vehicles gearing up to counter-attack any demonstration suspicion. Take my advice and leave the scene as soon as you notice any form of demonstration and skip Taksim Square altogether on May 1st.

That being said, excluded from the demonstration ban are gatherings for public events such as New Year’s eve, Republic Day celebrations or watching important football matches on giant screens set up for the occasion.

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Therefore, if you see the entry also listed in Istanbul restaurants by district, this means that the establishment welcomes you for either. In all other case, the establishment’s core business is serving drinks and providing (nightly) entertainment.

Unless specifically mentioned otherwise, I can recommend them.

• Beyoğlu (Taksim) District

  • James Joyce Irish Pub (The Irish Centre)
  • Leb-i Derya
  • Midpoint Café & Restaurant

• Sultanahmet District

  • Bodrum Cafe & Restaurant

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Midpoint (Midpoint)
Location
Tom Tom Mah., İstiklal Caddesi 187, Beyoğlu
Tel: +90 212 245 70 40 - 41
Open
Daily till past midnight.
Credit cards are accepted.
Make reservations if you want good seating arrangements.

Two Seasons, Two Views

The café and restaurant is designed to please you no matter the season. For the colder days they have a spacious covered area consisting of a nice mix of wood and glass, with giant windows facing İstiklal Caddesi from where you can watch the Istanbul people mix stroll by. Noteworthy is the fact that if the weather permits, these windows can be opened completely.
From spring to winter however, there is the roof terrace. Not a high-rise one, but still enough to provide you with a nice glimpse of Kadıköy on the Asian side, Topkapi Palace, the Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet, and the entrance to the Golden Horn.

I was lucky. Not only did the mild November weather allow me to sit outside, arriving at 18:00 without reservation proved to be just in time. By 18:30 there was not a single table left on their rather big terrace. Sure, they could have stuffed some more tables on it, but apparently the people at Midpoint understood that sitting like sardines in a can is not good practice. No matter how comfortable the chairs are. Bottom line: since you’re most likely to arrive a bit after six in the evening, make reservations.

Excellent Food and Service

With the sun setting, the candles being lit and nice background music putting me in the right mood, I ordered the Chicken Quesadella (YTL 13,5). A very tasty tortilla filled with a sautéed hot pepper mix, chicken pieces, yellow cheese and served with French fries, Mediterranean greens and a salsa sauce.
A tough but excellent choice out of their very varied menu with starters (YTL 12-15), salads (YTL 13-17,5), sandwiches , burgers, quesadillas, wraps (tortilla) and burgers (YTL 12-15), pastas (YTL 12,5-15,5), 12 chicken dishes (YTL 16-17) and over 15 meat dishes (YTL 19-21). I wouldn’t recommend the place if you’re a fish connoisseur, with only 5 fish plates on the menu, each YTL 20.
During the weekdays and until noon you can have a breakfast plate for YTL 17,5 but in the weekend you have two hours extra to order. Drinks are all reasonable priced between YTL 8-9.

Exactly Midpoint

You can’t pick a better location to open up a café or restaurant called Midpoint. But that doesn’t mean it’s easy to find the place. Coming form Taksim Square, you walk down towards Tünel and pass Çiçek Pasajı, Balık Pasajı, Galatasaray Lisesi until you reach Oda Kule on your right. You can miss really; it’s one of the oldest and now ugliest ‘high-rise’ office buildings in Istanbul, with a small shopping arcade underneath it.
Right across from it, on your left, you’ll see yet another shopping arcade – İstiklal Caddesi has plenty of them – and the entrance to Midpoint right next to it. Enter the building and take the stairs (no elevator!) to the first floor.

If the small flight of stairs didn’t make you breathless, the stylish room will. From the outside you would never give it a worthy look, but they really outdid themselves in renovating this previously shaggy ‘beer garden’.

In the future I think we’ll see people meet more and more in Midpoint instead of standing in front of the Galatasaray Lisesi gates.

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The Irish Centre (James Joyce Irish Pub)
Location
İstiklal Caddesi, Balo Sokak 26, Beyoğlu
Tel: +90 212 244 79 70
Open
Daily till early morning.
Credit cards are accepted.

Multipurpose Pub

The James Joyce Irish pub moved to its current and probably final location in March 2004. An excellent choice, since it’s now only a few meters away from Nevizade Sokak, one of Istanbul’s famous night-life streets.
In 2008, the Irish Centre underwent a very successful facelift. With lessons learnt from the first four years, the current interior design and layout are excellent to serve all of the pub’s entertainment goals:

• a relaxed atmosphere to socialize over a drink or a snack, without loud music (until the evening)
• being able to receive plenty of customers, yet don’t give an empty impression during the daytime
• ability to show concerts and sports programs or play a game of darts without disturbing regulars that just want to have a drink
• provide a quiet corner for romantic souls or people who want to read a book
• a stage for live performances
• plenty of space to dance the night away until early hours
• a small boutique hotel consisting of seven rooms (to be opened in 2009)

Irish Pub with a Mixed Crowd

You definitely don’t need to be Irish to visit James Joyce. While the pubs character and décor is Irish, the crowd is most certainly not. On any given night, you’ll find a nice mix of Turks, expats and tourist from around the globe.

The Irish Pub really gets packed for soccer nights with Turkish derbies or international matches, and during the weekends with live cover bands performing. If you’re more into traditional Irish music, then make sure to cross out Sunday and Monday evenings in your calendar. For a more detailed program, check the Irish Centre website.

Guinness in a Can

The Irish Pub has a nice selection of food and beverages. A typical Irish breakfast (bacon, sausages, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, chips and salad) is served all day and will set you back for YTL 17,5. You can also choose from a nice variety of appetizers (YTL 7-10), pizzas and main dishes (YTL 10-18) and desserts (YTL 7,5).

I had the hot cream cheese jalapeño poppers ( deep fried nuggets of cream cheese an hot jalapeño pepper). Although listed as an appetizer, it made me cancel the main course since portions are certainly not small.

Of course, an Irish pub wouldn’t be complete without a decent range of beers (YTL 5-7) including, albeit not from the tap, a pint of Guinness. You may also be tempted to try their fine selection of Irish, Scottish and international liquors.

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Bodrum Cafe & Restaurant (Bodrum Cafe & Restaurant)
Location
Divanyolu Caddesi, Şeftali Sokak 16, Sultanahmet
Tel: +90 212 526 94 71
Open
Daily till around midnight.
Credit cards are accepted.

The Bodrum Café & Restaurant is located next to the Sultan Pub, which is the first establishment you’ll see on Divanyolu Caddesi while coming back from Sultanahmet Square. With its nice outdoor tables located on the corner of the street, it’s an excellent spot to enjoy a refreshment and watch the world go by.

But if you make a right and walk less than ten meters extra, you’ll find the Bodrum Café & Restaurant. It also has an outside terrace with comfortable chairs and there are still plenty of people walking by to observe. But, not only do they serve the same kind of drinks, they charge significantly less. On top of it all, the pub is located adjacent to the park, hence further away from the tramway (noise).

Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with the Sultan Pub, but why settle for it when just a few steps further you can get more value for your money.

They also serve food, but I never ate there. For a quick snack, I prefer the Sultanahmet Köftecisi around the corner and for a full course dinner I think the restaurants in Taksim have more to offer.

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