People who visited Istanbul’s Istiklal Caddesi (İstiklal Caddesi) in the new millennium will tell you that it’s a busy but pleasant pedestrian street in the Beyoğlu district, housing a huge variety of shops, galleries, restaurants, bars and cinemas. And that is exact what Istiklal Caddesi today is. However, most people don’t know that it was formerly known as the ‘Grande Rue de Pera’, Istanbul’s most elegant street and home to the city’s smartest shops, various embassies and churches as well as fashionable residences and tea-houses. A street people wouldn’t dream of taking a stroll on wearing an ordinary pair of jeans. Let me take you on a trip down memory lane.

Istiklal Caddesi before the foundation of Turkey

It wasn’t until the founding of the Republic of Turkey that this famous street received its third and present name. Look for on the Map with Tourist Attractions in the Modern Part of Istanbul. Originally the street was simply called Grand Avenue (Cadde-i Kebir). With the arrival and settlement of non-Muslims and European foreigners in the 17th century, Istiklal Caddesi was referred to as ‘Grand Rue de Pera’.

At the end of the 18th century French, English, Dutch, Greek, Venetian, Spanish, Russian, Swiss and Prussian diplomats built their winter manors in the area. Along with this multi-national population came the still existing variety in religious buildings such as the Roman Catholic churches of Santa Maria and St. Anthony of Padua Cathedral, the Greek Orthodox Haghia Triada, the Armenian Church, and many other churches and synagogues.

In the second half of the 19th century, due to the development of the transportation and increased foreign trade of the Ottoman Empire, the area between Taksim and Galatasaray improved and became a cosmopolite settlement for the merchants, businessmen, bankers, foreigners and rich people who followed the fashion in Paris. At the end of the century all basic facilities that a modern society requires such as water, gas and the tramway were constructed. Three theatres also simultaneously staged the most famous Paris plays of those times.

Istiklal Caddesi after the Republic of Turkey Was Founded

In the 20th century, the connection of the first electrical tramway from Taksim to Şişli made the Taksim-Galatasaray stretch more popular than the Galatasaray-Tünel part.
In the young Republic times Turkish businessmen replaced the foreigners. The Beyoğlu district, and Istiklal Caddesi in particular, became the most modern part of the city. It was the favorite spot of the intellectuals because of the cultural background and variety, together with the presence of renowned restaurants, patisseries, and luxurious shops. The whole street was considered so distinguished that people used to dress up to take a walk or do some shopping in the avenue.

In the 1950s, the influx of immigrants from Turkey’s rural parts to Istanbul caused a sudden, unanticipated growth and rapid urbanization of the city. New formed settlements and changes in the society’s culture made the Beyoğlu district and Istiklal Caddesi lose its crème de la crème profile.

Fortunately, today thanks to an inspired Beyoğlu Beautification Project by the municipality, together with its central location and historical background, the street has regained most of its former status. Istiklal Caddesi is again accepted as the center of the city and packed with people browsing the street with its renovated 19th century Turkish architecture buildings, countless shops and extremely vivid night life. Also see the Istiklal Caddesi photo gallery.

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Taksim Square in Beyoğlu, located in the modern part of Istanbul, is not only considered the heart of modern Istanbul, it’s also a very busy public transportation hub and popular meeting point.

There are two versions available: a YouTube version (smaller in size) and a WVM version (bigger in size). The length of both movies is the same: 4:00 min.

Enjoy!

YouTube Version

Local Version

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There are basically two options: south of the Golden Horn or north of it.
The good news is that there is no good or bad area. It’s just a matter of preference. The bad news is that you should expect to spend plenty of time in taxis, regardless of the area you choose. Why? Because most visitors tend to spend a fair amount of time in both areas. Luckily taxis come rather cheap!

North or South of the Golden Horn?

Map of Istanbul with the Golden Horn, the Modern Part of Istanbul, and the Historical Part of Istanbul.

The Golden Horn (Haliç, see blue area on map) is the river-mouth that is spanned by the Galata and the Atatürk bridges. South of the Golden Horn, you’ll find the historical part of Istanbul (red area on map). North of the Golden Horn is the modern part of Istanbul (purple area on map) and basically means Beyoğlu (Taksim), the business and entertainment district.

South of the Golden Horn has traditionally been the centre for the city’s budget and mid-range accommodation, with a lot of historical hotels and pensions, while Beyoğlu (and Taksim in particular) was the place to be for four star and deluxe hotels. To a certain extend this is still the case, but in recent years both areas can offer a wide variety in hotel choices. For an overview of my favorite hotels, check out recommended hotels in the historical part of Istanbul and recommended hotels in the modern part of Istanbul.

So, based on what should I pick an area?

Both areas have their pros and cons. If you want to sleep within walking distance of top sightseeing attractions like Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar and the Basilica Cistern or enjoy breakfast on a rooftop terrace while admiring the cleavage created by the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, then you can’t go wrong south of the Golden Horn. The downside is however that the streets tend to get less crowded after sundown and good night-entertainment is rather scarce.

Beyoğlu on the other hand misses out on the romance and views offered in Sultanahmet, but largely compensates this with its Bosphorus views, countless cozy (rooftop) restaurants and lively bars and nightclubs, all just a short stagger home afterwards.

And the winner is…

Over the years I have stayed in both areas and had to find lodging for numerous visitors. Based on those experiences I favor a stay north of the Golden Horn. Certainly if your city-trip exceeds a three-night stay, since this means you’ll travel outside the boundaries of Sultanahmet and its neighboring districts. In which case Taksim is ideally located as the centre for your excursions. Even if this means you need to take a 15-minute taxi ride (or double in rush hour but still only TL 10) to reach Sultanahmet.

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