A Scenic Cruise on the Bosphorus has to be on your Istanbul to-do list while you’re visiting this marvellous Turkish metropolitan. To give you an idea of what you can expect, I created the video below.

There are two versions available: a YouTube version (smaller in size) and a WVM version (bigger in size). The length of both movies is the same: 4:39 min.

Enjoy!

YouTube Version

Local Version

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After leaving the Yeniköy dock we enter the final leg of the Scenic Bosphorus Cruise. There were plenty of sightseeing spots to look for during the cruise on the lower Bosphorus and the middle Bosphorus, and in that respect the upper Bosphorus may seem a little disappointing. But don’t be fooled by the shorter highlights list below (the place marks refer to their locations on the map below). Views of the Black Sea and the Istanbul strait from the Genoese Castle on the Anadolu Kavağı shore are spectacular. You can also explore the village itself a bit or try out one of the many fish restaurants for lunch or dinner.

• Beykoz – The biggest features of this fishing village are the İshak Ağa Çeşmesi, an elegant ablution fountain (1746) on the village square, and some excellent fish restaurants. From now on you can focus on the European shore, since most of the land from Beykoz until Anadolu Kavağı (the last stop) belongs to the military.
• 

  The Huber Mansion

  Huber Mansion (Huber Köşkü) – This 19th century yalı, designed by D’Aronco, currently belongs to the government and is an official residence of the Turkish president.

• Tarabya Bay – A little cove which used to be frequented by aristocrats for its healthy water and climate. Today, the area is still rather exclusive, but the focus lies on the rather pricy (fish) restaurants.
• Sarıyer – The first of the three docks where the ferry will land during its cruise on the upper Bosphorus. It is also the biggest village of this final leg. Wandering around the streets and eating in one of the fish restaurants (turn right) is a pleasant experience.
• Rumeli Kavağı – I personally never disembarked at this last stop on the European shore. Why? Simply because it doesn’t seem to be an attractive or lively place, with the only attraction the fish restaurants that are line-up by the waterfront.
• 

  Fish restaurants in Anadolu Kavağı

  Anadolu Kavağı – This is the last stop of the ferry, before it returns back to the city center following the exact same route in the opposite direction. Do get off the ferry here to wander around in this cozy little village, climb up to Anadolu Kavağı Kalesi and/or grab a bite in one of the many fish restaurants. Whatever you decide to do, make sure you don’t miss the last ferry back! And in case you ended up here with the nightly Bosphorus tour, you only just have enough time to grab a bite so don’t stall deciding what restaurant to take. I tried a few already, and they more or less all serve the same (quality of) food.
  If you’re up for it, take the walk (under 1 hour) to the ruins of the medieval castle or alternatively take a taxi. The fortress was built by the Byzantines, occupied and reinforced by the Genoese in 1350, and later seized by the Ottomans. Once there, you can enjoy spectacular views of the Black Sea.

View Highlights on the Upper Bosphorus in a larger map

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The second leg of the Scenic Bosphorus Cruise Tour is certainly as entertaining as the first part, if not better! Why? While cruising on the lower Bosphorus, you see tourist attractions that you probably will visit later or visited already. The sightseeing spots on the middle Bosphorus are located a bit further from the city center and thus off the beaten tourist track. Be on the lookout for landmarks such as the Fortress of Europe, İstinye Bay, various beautiful mansions, Yeniköy and of course the second Bosphorus Bridge. Look for their respective place marks () on the Bosphorus map at the end of the article.

• Red Mansion (Kırmızı Yalı) – Built in 1790, it is not only one of the oldest mansions, it is also still painted in the authentic rust read color known as ‘Ottoman Rose’.
• Egyptian Consulate – Another beautiful mansion (yalı), commissioned by the Khedive of Egypt at the beginning of the 20th century. Pay attention to the Art Nouveau influenced ornaments. It currently serves as the Egyptian Consulate, hence lost a bit of its grace with the installation of modern technologies.
• 

  Bebek, Istanbul

  Bebek – If you cruise on the Bosphorus by night, look out for the small white lighthouse on the European shore since the cozy seaside village of Bebek is next up. With plenty of nice restaurants, shops and cafes lined up by the waterfront, Bebek is one of the most trendy and fashionable villages.

• Küçüksu Palace (Küçüksu Kasrı) – Although this is a rather small palace to Ottoman standards, you really can’t miss it. Completed in 1857, sultans used it for short stays while picnicking, visiting the Sweet Waters of Asia (see below) or during their hunting trips. It undoubtedly has one of the most appealing facades on the Bosphorus, certainly after it was completely restored and opened to the public in 1994.
• 

  Sweet Waters of Asia

  Sweet Waters of Asia – This is the name given to the Göksu and Küçüksu rivers. During the Ottoman era, the aristocrats used to dress-up to row their boats and gather on both rivers. Today, the green banks accommodate several cafes and restaurants.

• Fortress of Anatolia (Anadolu Hisarı) – This was the first of the two fortresses built on the banks of the narrowest point of the Bosphorus. The Fortress of Asia was commissioned by Sultan Beyazit I in 1391.
• Fortress of Europe (Rumeli Hisarı) – The second fortress, built in only 4 months, was ready to serve Mehmet the Conqueror’s siege of Constantinople in 1452. Thanks to both fortresses, he was able to control all traffic on the Bosphorus and cut of supplies by sea. Today the Fortress of Europe is open to the public and occasionally serves as an open-air performance venue.
• Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin Paşa Mansion (Köprülü Amcazade Hüseyin Paşa Yalı) – Built by the grand vizier Amcazade Köprülü Hüseyin Pasha in 1699 and located just before the second Bosphorus Bridge on the Asian side, this is the oldest surviving yalı. It unfortunately shows its age!
• Second Bosphorus Bridge (Fatih Sultan Mehmet Köprüsü) – The bridge, 510 m long and 39 m wide, is named after the 15th century Ottoman Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror, who took Constantinople and ended the Byzantine Empire. The bridge is in service since 1988.
• 

  The Ethem Pertev Yalı

  Ethem Pertev Mansion (Ethem Pertev Yalı) – This mansion, which dates back to 1908, is recognizable by its boathouse and Baroque influences in the form of wood carved balconies.

• Kanlıca Dock (Kanlıca İskelesi) – This is the first of two docks in the middle Bosphorus where the ferry stops to let people on and off. Kanlıca is best known for its delicious creamier type of yoghurt.
• İstinye Bay (İstinye Koyu) – This is the biggest natural Bosphorus inlet, serving as a yacht marina.
• Sait Halim Paşa Mansion (Sait Halim Paşa Yalı) – Just before landing at the Yeniköy dock, look for the house with white shutters and two stone lions on the quay.
• Yeniköy Dock (Yeniköy İskelesi)- The second dock in this part of the Bosphorus cruise. Don’t get off. Just admire the largest concentration of restored waterfront mansions (yalı) before the ferry departs for the third and last part of the Bosphorus tour.

View Highlights on the Middle Bosphorus in a larger map

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5.Kat (Beşinci Kat) was Istanbul’s first rooftop cafe, bar and restaurant, hence trendsetter of the genre. Kat is Turkish for floor, and beş means five.
You guessed it correct; this popular venue is located on the fifth floor of a building in the backstreets of Cihangir, offering excellent food and beverages in an elegant setting with breathtaking views of both the Bosphorus and Sultanahmet alike.

5.Kat Cafe Bar Restaurant (Beşinci Kat)
Location
Soğancı Sokak 3, Kat.5, Cihangir – Beyoğlu
on Map with My Favorite Cafés and Pubs in the Modern Part of Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 293 37 74
Open
Daily from 10:00 till 02:00. Fri-Sat until 03:00
Credit cards are accepted.
Make reservations if you want good seating arrangements.

Interior and Location

5.Kat was founded by the famous red-haired actress Yasemin Alkaya, who still keeps a close eye on things and is often spotted on the premises. The easiest way to get to 5.kat is to walk down Sıraselviler Caddesi from Taksim Square. After about 10 minutes you’ll pass the German hospital (Alman Hastanesi), after which you take the first street left. After 50 meters you should spot the 5.Kat angel logo at street level (see picture). Locate the small elevator inside the building and press five.

This excellent bar and restaurant actually consists of two floors: a covered fifth floor with full-length windows on one side, and one up the actual rooftop which is used during summer. Both interiors are strikingly decorated with deep red walls and velvet furnishing as well as plenty of candles. The breathtaking views (see 5.Kat picture gallery) are the same on both floors, but having the sea breeze bring some cool on hot summer nights offers that nice extra touch.

On the Menu

5.Kat rooftop terrace and bar.

Every day 5.Kat starts out as a cozy cafe where you can enjoy brunch or snacks and light drinks. Around the time the sun starts setting, tables are set and candles lit for dinner while the bartender serves aperitifs. Starting 22:00 the DJ, playing anything from Abba to Zappa, cranks up the music and the venue transforms into a bar and nightclub.

Beşinci Kat offers samples of the world’s kitchen with tasteful pasta, meat, chicken and seafood dishes. Prices range from TL 20 to 40. Accompanying drinks range from TL 8 (beers & local spirits) to TL 15 and above for cocktails, imported wines and spirits.

Special Events

5.Kat rooftop terrace.

On Saturday and Sunday you can enjoy a buffet brunch (TL 30) between 11:00 and 15:00 including fresh fruit juices, daily prepared home-made rolls, cookies and pies as well as delicious meals in olive oil.

Every month 5.Kat also organizes some special nights. Among the most popular events are ‘What they eat, drink and listen to’ where famous guests elaborates on his or her habits, and ‘Singles nights’ when no couples are allowed.

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The lower Bosphorus is the first leg of the Scenic Bosphorus Tour. In this article well cover the highlights you can see on the shores of the lower part of the Bosphorus strait after boarding the IDO ferry at the docks of Eminönü. Be on the lookout for landmarks such as the Leander’s Tower, Dolmabahçe Palace, Beylerbeyi Palace, Çirağan Palace, Ortaköy, various mansions and of course the first Bosphorus Bridge. Look for their respective place marks () on the Bosphorus map at the end of the article.

• Look Back! – A few minutes after the ferry leaves the docks of Eminönü, look back and enjoy Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque all together in one view.
• Leander’s Tower (Kız Kulesi) – Look for the white tower standing proud on the small island in the middle of the Bosphorus, close to the shore of Üsküdar. For centuries it used to be a lighthouse, but today it houses a popular (and pricy) café and restaurant.


Dolmabahçe Palace by night.

• Dolmabahçe Palace (Dolmabahçe Sarayı) – This is Turkey’s largest mono-block palace and Istanbul’s first European-style palace, extravagant because of its size and ornaments. This was the house of the last six Ottoman sultans and also where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk carried out some of his most important reforms and died in 1938.
• Iskele Mosque (İskele Camii) – This mosque was built by Mimar Sinan in 1548 and is a landmark of Üsküdar. İskele is Turkish for pier or dock, so the obvious name for a mosque sitting next to the Üsküdar ferry landing.
• Mimar Sinan University (Mimar Sinan Üniversitesi) – A Turkish state university teaching fine arts.
• Naval Museum (Deniz Müzesi) – If you’re into boats, this is a museum to add to your to-see-list. It houses a massive collection of Ottoman caiques as well as model ships, along with an extensive collection of maritime items. Top of the bill are booty captured from British and French warships sunk during World War I, the battle flag of the pirate Barbarossa and memorabilia from the Savarona, Atatürk’s yacht.
• Beşiktaş Dock (Beşiktaş İskelesi) – This is the only dock in the lower Bosphorus where the ferry stop to let people on and off. Do stay seated!


The Çırağan Palace

• Çırağan Palace (Çırağan Sarayı) – The Çırağan Palace (1867) was commissioned by Sultan Abdülaziz and is the last of the Ottoman imperial palaces. A big fire destroyed the interior of the palace in 1910. In 1989 the Kempinski chain restored the building and made a luxurious 5-star hotel of it.


The Fetih Ahmet Paşa Yalı.

• Fethi Ahmet Paşa Mansion (Fethi Ahmet Paşa Yalı) – This mansion or yalı, also known as the pembe yalı (pink mansion) because of its exterior color, was built in the late 18th century.
• Ortaköy – This is one of Istanbul’s most relaxing towns, not in the least for the narrow car-free cobblestone streets and waterfront square, filled with restaurants, cafes and bars. A great way to escape to the busy city life, except on weekends when there is a popular (crowded) craft market.
• Mecidiye Mosque (Mecidiye Camii) – This mosque serves not only as a landmark of Ortaköy, it is also one of the most prominent and elegant Bosphorus spots. The original mosque was built in the 18th century, but the current version dates back to 1856 and was ordered by Sultan Abdülmecid.
• The Bosphorus Bridge (Boğaziçi Köprüsü) – Built in 1973, this was the first bridge over the Bosphorus and is often referred to by locals as such. It is 1,5 km long and the deck is 39 meters wide. The clearance of the bridge from sea level is 64 meters. Since April 2007, a fully computerized LED lighting system of changing colors and patterns illuminates the bridge at night.


Beylerbeyi Palace in Istanbul

• Beylerbeyi Palace (Beylerbeyi Sarayı) – This summer residence was ordered by Sultan Abdülaziz in 1861. Pay special attention to the two extraordinary marble bathing pavilions at both ends on the shore: one for men and the other for the harem women.
• Sadullah Paşa Mansion (Sadullah Paşa Yalısı) – Another example of the mansions built by the Ottoman aristocracy. This one dates back to 1783 and is painted red-brown.
• Galatasaray Island (Galatasaray Adası) – This small island, just in front of the Kuruçeşme shore and also reffered to as Buz Ada, was acquired by the sports club in 1957. With its swimming pool, is was home to the Galatasaray water polo team until 1968. Today it is known for its receation and entertainment facilities including a pool and several bars and restaurants, all offering a magnificent view.
• Kuleli Military School (Kuleli Askeri Lisesi) – The first military high school of Turkey, founded in September 21, 1845.
• Arnavutköy – Translated from Turkish, Arnavutköy means ‘Albanian Village’. This is misleading because the current population is predominantly Turkish, and during the Ottoman Empire its inhabitants were Greek and Armenian. Just enjoy the abundance of mansions on the shore.

Make sure you don’t miss these spots of the middle Bosphorus during your cruise!

View Highlights on the Lower Bosphorus in a larger map

[Photo Credit: Randomil]

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I think it’s fair to say that the Bosphorus is the maritime counterpart of Istiklal Caddesi – it’s one of the busiest ’streets’ in Istanbul. Or should I say the world, since it’s the second busiest strait on the planet. On average 48,000 vessels per year transit between the  Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea by using this Istanbul strait – a narrow ‘S-shaped’ complex natural channel with several sharp turns and headlands, which prevent a proper overview, and with changing currents. That’s 132 vessels per day, not including local traffic consisting of public transportation ferries, Bosphorus cruises and fishing boats.

Bosphorus Facts & History

The Bosphorus (İstanbul Boğazı) is the northeastern strait of the Sea of Marmara, which connects this inner sea with the Black Sea. Even today there is still a lot of speculation about the origin of the Bosphorus.

One recent theory (published in 1997 by William Ryan and Walter Pitman from Columbia University) contends that the Bosporus was formed about 5600 B.C. when the rising waters of the Mediterranean/Sea of Marmara breached through to the Black Sea, which at the time (according to the theory) was a low-lying body of fresh water. Yanko-Hombach, a geology professor of Odessa State University, Ukraine, claims that the water flow through the Bosporus repeatedly reversed direction over geological time depending on the relative water levels of the Aegean Sea and the Black Sea. This contradicts the proposed catastrophic breakage of a Bosporus sill on which Ryan and Pitman base their hypothesis. Undoubtedly to be continued.

The first Bosphorus bridge in Istanbul.

What we do know are the following facts about Bosphorus. It is 32 km long, with a maximum width of 3,700 m at the northern entrance, and a minimum width of 700 m between Kandilli and Aşiyan and 750 m between Anadoluhisarı and Rumelihisarı. The depth changes from 36 to 124 m in midstream.

Two bridges connect the European and the Asian continents. The first bridge over the Bosphorus is simply called the Bosphorus Bridge (Boğaziçi Köprüsü), measures 1074 meters and was completed in 1973. The second bridge (1090 meters long) was completed in 1988, and is called the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge (Fatih Sultan Mehmet Köprüsü). Locals also refer to the bridges as the first and the second bridge.

Bosphorus Mansions (yalı)

A mansion (yalı) on the shores of the Bosphorus in Istanbul, Turkey.

The shores of Bosphorus have always been the city’s most favorite locations for settlements. The trademark of the Bosphorus is the yalı – a house or mansion constructed at the immediate waterside (almost exclusively seaside) in Istanbul. More than 600 finely worked wood constructions, mostly in the style of traditional Turkish houses, are lined next to one another and make the Bosphorus tour a treat for your eyes. The oldest surviving yalı is the one built by the grand vizier Amcazade Köprülü Hüseyin Pasha (of the highly influent Köprülü family) in 1699 in the Kanlıca district, on the Asian shores of the Bosphorus. The most expensive yalı is ‘Erbilgin Yalısı‘ located in Yeniköy, Istanbul. Forbes magazine listed ‘Erbilgin Yalısı‘ as the fifth most expensive house in the world with a price tag of $100 million.

On the surface of the Bosphorus the current usually flows from the Black Sea towards the Sea of Marmara. However, at a certain dept, the current flows in the exact opposite direction.

Strategic Importance

The Bosphorus has a huge strategic importance, both economical and military. In recent history alone, twice has the control over the Istanbul strait been at stake: in the Russo–Turkish War (1877–1878) and during World War I when in 1915 Allied Forces attacked the Dardanelles.

Currently, according to the Montreux Convention Regarding the Regime of the Turkish Straits of July 1936, the Bosphorus is treated as an international shipping lane, but Turkey does retain the right to restrict the naval traffic of non-Black Sea nations.

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No Istanbul experience is complete without a cruise up the Bosphorus. A bold statement? Sure, but in my opinion, it is as crucial as visiting any of the other major sightseeing spots. Certainly from June to September it’s one of Istanbul’s greatest pleasures. There are several ways to take a tour on the Bosphorus. But take my advice, don’t get tempted by the private bout tour offers ‘hustlers’ on the docks of Eminönü make. There is no better deal than the Scenic Bosphorus Tour operated by IDO – Istanbul’s Fast Ferry and Seabus Company. And did you know they also offer an unmissable night cruise on the Bosphorus?

Bosphorus Details

With two shores laden with highlights over a 32 km stretch, I decided to break up the more detailed descriptions of the Bosphorus and its main attractions in the following pages:

• Do You Know These Bosphorus Facts and Figures?
• Map of the Scenic Bosphorus Tour Ferry Route
• Cruise Highlights of the Lower Bosphorus
• Don’t Miss These Spots of the Middle Bosphorus during Your Cruise
• Cruising On the Upper Bosphorus towards the Black Sea
• Bosphorus Tour Video Gallery

Bosphorus Cruises (Boğaz Turu)

As I said before, stay clear of the private companies that offer cruises on the Bosphorus. They are overpriced, offer smaller tours and operate boats that often barely look seaworthy. Instead, either opt for tours provided by Turyol or IDO, where the latter has my preference.

IDO Scenic Bosphorus Tour (IDO Boğaziçi Özel Gezi)

The IDO dock in Eminönü.

Standing in Eminönü facing the Galata Tower, you’ll find the IDO Bosphorus Tour dock on the right-hand side of the Galata Bridge. The full cruise takes you for TL 20 from Eminönü to the Black Sea and back. Each way takes about 90 minutes, but you also want to get off the boat and spend some time in Anadolu Kavağı (the last stop, close to the Black Sea). There you can have lunch in one of the many fish restaurants and/or visit the fortress. So don’t throw away your boat ticket, because you’ll need it to board the ferry again after your excursion.

Every day, there are three boats going in the direction of the Black Sea, and of course three boats back. You can get on and off the ferry at either of the following docks, but to make the most of your trip I suggest starting in either Eminönü or Kabataş. Please note that the timetables below are only valid from 15 June to 23 September 2009.

Not applicable on Saturdays and Sundays
Applicable on Saturdays and Sundays

IDO Scenic Bosphorus Tour by Night (IDO Boğaziçi Özel Gezi)

The Dolmabahçe Palace at night.

If you ask me, this one really is top of the bill. From 1 July until 21 August, every Saturday you can make a nightly cruise on the Bosphorus. The ferry heads for the Black Sea just before the sun starts to set. Once in Anadolu Kavağı, you have 70 minutes to go ashore and enjoy a dinner in one of the many fish restaurants.

By the time you board the ferry again, darkness has fallen and you’ll enjoy the Bosphorus by night, in all its grace with nicely lit monuments and a variety of city lights, including the Bosphorus Bridge. So, for a mere TL 20, you get to see both shapes of the Bosphorus in one cruise.

Make sure though not to miss the boat back at 22:00, it really is the last boat!

Turyol Bosphorus Tour (Turyol Boğaz Turu)

If you’re pressed for time or don’t fancy a long cruise on the Bosphorus, then you may want to check out Turyol. They are located on the left-hand side of the Galata Bridge. For TL 9 Turyol takes you on a 90 minutes Bosphorus trip to the second bridge and back. From 12:00 onwards (11:00 on Saturdays and 10:00 on Sundays), boats depart approximately every hour. The last boat leaves the docks at 20:00.

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The map below shows the route that the ferry takes during the Scenic Bosphorus Tour. A cruise on the Bosphorus (Boğaziçi) is simply put an excursion you can’t afford to miss. There are plenty of highlights and the sea-breeze offers a welcome refreshment on hot summer days. Not to mention that the setting is extremely romantic at dusk.

On the map, you’ll see the route the ferry takes (back and forth) and the docks where it briefly stops to let people on and off. In chronological order (and from south/bottom to north/up), the boat icons represent the following docks:

• Eminönü (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
• Beşiktaş (Lower Bosphorus, European shore)
• Kanlıca (Middle Bosphorus, Asian shore)
• Yeniköy (Middle Bosphorus, European shore)
• Sarıyer (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
• Rumeli Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, European shore)
• Anadolu Kavağı (Upper Bosphorus, Asian shore)

View The Route of the Scenic Bosphorus Tour in a larger map

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The map below gives an overview of the five main tourist areas in Istanbul:

• the historical part, or south of the Golden Horn
• the modern part, or north of the Golden Horn
• along the Bosphorus
• the Asian shore
• along the Golden Horn

Just click on one of the five colored (red, blue, green, pink and brown) areas to see more details.
The Princes’ Islands are not colored in and can be found south of the green area by moving the map upwards.

View Finding Your Way Around Istanbul as a Tourist in a larger map

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Leb-i Derya is one of the first rooftop bars and restaurants – 5. Kat was the pioneer – and still ranks among my favorite establishments in Istanbul. It’s simply hard to beat its marvelous views over Istanbul.
In 2007 they opened up their second branch on the sixth floor of the Richmond hotel, but I’ll stick to the original one here.

Leb-i Derya (Leb-i Derya)
Location
Kumbaracı Yokuşu 57/6, Tünel – Beyoğlu
on Map with My Favorite Cafés and Pubs in the Modern Part of Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 293 49 89
Open
Daily till past midnight.
Credit cards are accepted.
Make reservations if you want good seating arrangements.

The Challenge

Finding Leb-i Derya may proof a bit difficult, since it’s located in a tiny side street of the famous Istiklal Caddesi. Coming from Taksim square, walk almost 75% of Istiklal Caddesi towards Tünel and try to locate a small side street on your left called Kumbaracı Yokuşu.

Once you find the street, walk down the (fairly steep) slope for about 150 meters and look for Leb-i Derya’s logo (see picture) on one of the house at your right. Enter the building and climb the stairs to the first floor, after which you’ll take the elevator to the sixth floor. From there you take one more flight of stairs.

The Reward

Is it worth all the trouble? Without a doubt! The mix of wood, glass, soft lighting, nice background music and friendly staff makes it one of the most fabulous establishments in the district. Fabulous, not in the least because of the views it has to offer.

Therefore, try to get a seat on the small terrace to enjoy the full flavor, preferably around dusk. There’s nothing that can beat sipping from your favorite aperitif while gazing at the Bosphorus, the Golden Horn, the nicely lit monuments of Sultanahmet or all the way to Kadıköy on the Asian side.

Leb-i Derya may not offer the cheapest drinks in the city, but is certainly one of the most stylish ways to have them. And keep in mind before ordering another one, there is still that slope on the way back.

From what I heard, Leb-i Derya also has an excellent kitchen, but I unfortunately can’t vouch for that.

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