If this is your first time to Istanbul, you’ll be spending most of your time in this area of town. Simply because it is home to most of the unmissable and famous sights. The historical part of Istanbul is the area south of the Golden Horn and consists of boroughs such as Beyazıt, Eminönü, Fatih, Kumkapı, Sirkeci, Süleymaniye, Sultanahmet, and Tahtakale. Below you find an overview of the ones you may (unknowingly) wander around in as a tourist.

Sultanahmet

The Blue Mosque, seen from Sultanahmet Square.

Sultanahmet is by far the most important borough of the historical part of Istanbul. It was the heart of the Byzantine, Constantine and Ottoman empires. Today people still refer to Sultanahmet as the historical heart of Istanbul. It has the highest concentration of tourist attractions, all barely a few minutes away from each other and well within walking distance.

Divan Yolu – the main street with the tramway – is the spine of Sultanahmet, while Sultanahmet Square is the obvious starting point for your tourist excursions. It’s a central location from which the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Place, the Hippodrome and the Basilica Cistern can be reached easily.

For impressions of Sultanahmet, please visit the Sultanahmet video gallery and the Sultanahmet photo gallery.

Beyazıt

If you start walking slightly uphill on Divan Yolu – leaving Sultanahmet Square behind you – you’ll end up in Beyazıt. Upon reaching Beyazıt Square, you can see the Beyazıt Tower and the Beyazıt University which was founded on 30 May 1453, the day after Mehmet II the Conqueror captured Istanbul. Beyazıt Square is also one of the main entrances to the Grand Bazaar. Also worth mentioning in this borough is the book bazaar (Sahaflar Çarşısı) – a charming booksellers courtyard.

Süleymaniye

The main attraction in this area is the Süleymaniye Mosque. To reach it, from Beyazıt Square walk around the university from the left-hand side until your reach the street of the addicts.

Eminönü

Eminönü, bustling with activity during the day but awfully quiet at night.

Located completely within the old city walls, Eminönü has always been a crucial settlement for the transportation and trade throughout the history. After the 10th century the Latin colonies, mostly the Genoese, settled in this Byzantine town and built their own piers to trade. During the Ottoman Empire the area kept on playing its role as trade center, and received with the Sirkeci train station some added value.

During the Turkish Republic period the face of the area changed drastically. The buildings in front of the New Mosque (Yeni Camii) and the ticket boxes for crossing the bridge were demolished; some buildings around the Spice Bazaar were cleared out while others were renovated. Although until the late 50s the area’s population kept on growing, today the residential population decreased massively due to the trade and business.

The city ferry line piers (among the Scenic Bosphorus Ferry Cruise dock) and the inner city bus terminal by the sea, the New Mosque, the Spice Bazaar and various shops surrounding those landmarks are the most prominent features of Eminönü.

Sirkeci

The most important attraction is the Sirkeci train station – once the final station of the Orient Express. The main street is called Ankara Caddesi and climbs up the hill to Cağaloğlu which used to be the press center.

Also the ferries heading for the Princes’ Islands as well as the car ferries to Harem on the Asian side are located on the seaside part of Sirkeci. Büyük Postane – the building of Istanbul’s postal authorities – is the biggest postal building in Turkey.

Tahtakale

Tahtakale is located south-west of the Spice Bazaar and famous for its coffee. Coffee came to Istanbul in 1519 after Selim I the Grim conquered Egypt and Hedjaz. The first kahvehane (café serving only coffee or tea) of Istanbul was opened in 1554 in Tahtakale by two merchants. The first customers were the bureaucrats. In those days kahvehanes were places for the intellectuals and entertainment lovers to socialize, discuss art, and play chess or backgammon. In those days being able to join these gatherings meant being accepted and approved by the community.

Located so close to the port of Eminönü, Tahtakale has always been the center of trade with dozens of shops cramped in its small streets. Before 1980 it was famous for illegal foreign exchange which was banned in those days. After the ban was lifted the area lost that reputation but is still very well-known for the variety and authenticity of the shops located in its narrow and crowded streets.

Kumkapı

Today Kumkapı is still famous for its fish restaurants.

In Byzantine days its name was Kontoskalion, meaning small pier. In Turkish, Kumkapı means ’sand gate’. It was one of the gates in the old city walls. Up until recent times, the residential population of Kumkapı was mostly Armenian. They still have a community school and several churches there. It is also the seat of the Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople. Today Kumkapı is famous for its various fish restaurants and taverns located in car free streets – Nevizade style.

Fatih

The name of this borough comes from Mehmed II the Conqueror. Today it is still accepted as the real Istanbul. It is also one of the most conservative parts of Istanbul.

The most eminent historical values in the area are the Valens Aqueduct (Bozdoğan Kemeri) located on the Atatürk Boulevard, Yedikule Fortress, the Palace of Porphyrogenitus (Tekfur Sarayı), the Fethiye Mosque, the Kariye Mosque, the Gül Mosque (a former Byzantine church), the Fenari Isa Mosque (a complex of two Byzantine churches), the Greek Patriarchate with the Church of St George, the Yavuz Selim Mosque and the famous Fatih Mosque. The latter is the first mosque built within the medresseh (medrese) in Ottoman history.

The tombs of Mehmed II the Conqueror (Fatih Sultan Mehmet), Selim I the Grim (Yavuz Sultan Selim) and some of the leading statesmen of the Ottoman Empire, including Gazi Osman Pasha, are in Fatih.

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Below you’ll find an overview of hotels I can recommend in the historical part of Istanbul. I grouped the hotels according to the amount of stars they are rewarded. Keep in mind that the amount of stars refer to the quality and service they offer.

• Five Star Hotels in the Historical Part of Istanbul
• Four Star Hotels in the Historical Part of Istanbul
• Two and Three Star Hotels in the Historical Part of Istanbul

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Below you will find an overview of two and three-star hotels in the historical part of Istanbul. By clicking on a hotel name, you can obtain detailed information about the hotel, provided by Booking.com or the hotel’s own website.
The overview by no means lists all two and three star hotels in this area. The hotel list is based on personal experiences cross-checked with customer reviews provided by Booking.com. Most of the hotels have either been visited by me or by one or more of my acquaintances. They appear in alphabetical order.

• Ahmet Efendi Evi – This three-star hotel is a family guest house. The rooms are small but spotless, the staff friendly and helpful, and the location great. Ahmet Efendi Evi is located in the heart of the historical part of Istanbul, within walking distance of the main tourist attractions.
• Aslan Istanbul – This charming family-run 3-star boutique hotel with its homely interior and 18 clean but rather small rooms is located in a quiet street in the center of old Istanbul. As with most hotels in this district, their location is excellent.
• Ayasofya Pansiyonları – This three star hotel, also known as Ayasofya Konakları or Ayasofya Evleri, consists of nine renovated 19th century wooden houses, located in a dream setting: the cobbled street between the back-side of the Hagia Sophia and the high walls of the Topkapi Palace.
• Best Point – This brand new 3-star boutique hotel offers 13 very clean, modern and nicely decorated rooms. The hotel is within walking distance of the main attractions such as the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern.
• Empress Zoe – This hotel combines three separate restored houses, hence benefits from a number of enclosed gardens and panoramic terraces. Rooms reflect a high standard of taste and design. Please note that access to the rooms is via a narrow circular iron staircase.
• Olimpiyat – This three star hotel offers 59 not too big but clean rooms, each with a private bathroom. The hotel combines a great location with the famous Turkish hospitality in a casual atmosphere.

Note to accommodation owners: If you want to be added to the listings on Istanbul Trails, please contact us via the Contact or Advertise page. Keep in mind though that hotels will never be listed without personally having visited your accommodation, enabling me to write a truthful review.

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Below you will find an overview of 4-star hotels in the historical part of Istanbul. By clicking on a hotel name, you can obtain detailed information about the hotel, provided by Booking.com or the hotel’s own website.
The overview by no means lists all four star hotels in this area. The hotel list is based on personal experiences cross-checked with customer reviews provided by Booking.com. Most of the hotels have either been visited by me or by one or more of my acquaintances. They appear in alphabetical order.

• Best Western Premier Regency Suites & Spa – This 5-storey hotel located in the heart of Sultanahmet and offering only 16 rooms, is in my opinion the best hotel of the Best Western chain in this area. It has a contemporary style and provides spacious accommodation, spa and health facilities. Their terrace and some of the rooms have scenic views over the Bosporus and Blue Mosque.
• Best Western The President – This seven storey modern hotel (204 rooms) is located a bit further away from the heart of old Istanbul, but still within walking distance and in the proximity of the tramway. The hotel is known for its pleasant atmosphere and authentic English pub.
• Boutique Apex – If you want to avoid the bigger (chain) hotels and receive a more personal treatment, this recently (2008) opened hotel with only 12 rooms will certainly suit your needs. The hotel’s superb location is of course also a big advantage.
• Faros Istanbul – A brand new (spring 2006) modern boutique hotel with 23 rooms and nice views. The area has a traditional atmosphere including open markets and bazaars. As with most hotels, ask for a room away from the noisy street side.
• Garden House Istanbul – Housed in a 19th century Ottoman mansion with a wooden exterior, the friendly Garden House hotel offers 20 rather spacious and clean rooms, 9 of which with a modern design. It is located in Sultanahmet, within walking distance of all the main attractions in the historical part of Istanbul.
• Nena – This five stories high, red-faced boutique hotel offers 29 rooms and is located only 100 meters away from the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern and the Hippodrome. Needless to say their terrace restaurant offers both excellent food and views.
• Orient Express – Named after the nostalgic train Orient Express, its 54 small but cozy rooms are all decorated in an authentic way. The hotel features a panoramic terrace restaurant, an indoor swimming pool and train wagon bar. Ask for rooms in the back, since the street tends to be noisy.
• Ottoman Imperial – This clean great little hotel with its pleasant staff and 54 rooms sits on a truly premium location in town, on an elevated position, surrounded by all the major landmarks of the Sultanahmet and Topkapi districts.
• Sapphire – This new comfortable hotel with 60 rooms is located close to the Gülhane Park. Although it is not far away from all major landmarks in the old part of town, be prepared to walk a bit upwards when heading for those sightseeing spots.
• Zeynep Sultan Boutique – Zeynep Sultan is a small (24 rooms), friendly and immaculately clean boutique style hotel located right in the heart of the city, proof of which is the small street with its cobblestones.

Note to accommodation owners: If you want to be added to the listings on Istanbul Trails, please contact us via the Contact or Advertise page. Keep in mind though that hotels will never be listed without personally having visited your accommodation, enabling me to write a truthful review.

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Below you will find an overview of 5-star hotels in the historical part of Istanbul. By clicking on a hotel name, you can obtain detailed information about the hotel, provided by either Booking.com or the hotel’s own website.

The overview by no means lists all 5-star hotels in this area. The hotel list is based on personal experiences cross-checked with customer reviews provided by Booking.com. Most of the hotels have either been visited by me or by one or more of my acquaintances. They appear in alphabetical order.

• Eresin Crown Hotel – This is more than just a luxury hotel, offering 60 rooms and two restaurants, one of them overlooking the Sea of Marmara. Inside the hotel you’ll also find a private museum, holding 49 pieces of art excavated on the hotel’s grounds.
• Four Seasons – Created from a century-old neoclassic Turkish prison, its 65 guest rooms and suites frame an open courtyard. Together with their very spacious rooms they provide an atmosphere of personal attention and ease.
• Sirkeci Konak – This classical Ottoman mansion style hotel, with 52 spacious rooms, is located at the historic peninsula, yet has a green and peaceful recreational twist to it thanks to adjacent Gülhane Park. Guests are welcomed and treated according to Turkish and Ottoman traditions.
• Hotel Sultanhan – A 40 room Ottoman style boutique hotel in a renovated governor’s residence, featuring magnificent views of the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the old city as well as traditional Turkish hospitality.
• World Park Hotel – This 5-star luxury Byzantine style hotel, offering 172 majestic and stylish rooms, is situated in the 4.Vakıf Han premises, a building that radiates historical grandeur and possesses exquisite architecture.

Note to accommodation owners: If you want to be added to the listings on Istanbul Trails, please contact us via the Contact or Advertise page. Keep in mind though that hotels will never be listed without personally having visited your accommodation, enabling me to write a truthful review.

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The map below gives an overview of the five main tourist areas in Istanbul:

• the historical part, or south of the Golden Horn
• the modern part, or north of the Golden Horn
• along the Bosphorus
• the Asian shore
• along the Golden Horn

Just click on one of the five colored (red, blue, green, pink and brown) areas to see more details.
The Princes’ Islands are not colored in and can be found south of the green area by moving the map upwards.

View Finding Your Way Around Istanbul as a Tourist in a larger map

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After visiting main tourist attractions such as the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque or Topkapi Palace and before descending into the Basilica Cistern or heading to the Grand Bazaar, people often end up in the Sultan Pub for a refreshing drink. Not surprising, given its location. It’s the first pub you come across on Divanyolu Caddesi. But by taking a few strides extra, you can save quit a bit of money!

Bodrum Cafe & Restaurant (Bodrum Cafe & Restaurant)
Location
Divanyolu Caddesi, Şeftali Sokak 16, Sultanahmet
on Map with My Favorite Cafés and Pubs in the Historical Part of Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 526 94 71
Open
Daily till around midnight.
Credit cards are accepted.

The Bodrum Café & Restaurant is located next to the Sultan Pub, which is the first establishment you’ll see on Divanyolu Caddesi while coming back from Sultanahmet Square. With its nice outdoor tables located on the corner of the street, it’s an excellent spot to enjoy a refreshment and watch the world go by.

But if you make a right and walk less than ten meters extra, you’ll find the Bodrum Café & Restaurant. It also has an outside terrace with comfortable chairs and there are still plenty of people walking by to observe. But, not only do they serve the same kind of drinks, they charge significantly less. On top of it all, the pub is located adjacent to the park, hence further away from the tramway (noise).

Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with the Sultan Pub, but why settle for it when just a few steps further you can get more value for your money.

They also serve food, but I never ate there. For a quick snack, I prefer the Sultanahmet Köftecisi around the corner and for a full course dinner I there are better restuarants in my Istanbul food and beverage guide.

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A trip to Istanbul is not complete without a visit to the Grand Bazaar. But hold your horses. Without proper advice, what is supposed to be a great oriental bargain hunt may become a big disillusion at best, or even a small nightmare.

When to Visit the Grand Bazaar

• Morning or Evening –The truth of the matter is that, at any given day, the sellers want to reach a certain sales quota. Some argue that the morning has preference in order to get a good deal, since they have the rest of the day still ahead. Other will recommend closing time, since the sellers probably have already reached that day’s profit goals and all the rest, however small it may be, is a nice extra for them. However, there is no evidence that either is a better option. In the end, it all comes down to your patience, bargaining skills and a bit of luck.
• Patience – I already mentioned it: make sure you’re not pressed for time. Visiting the Grand Bazaar sets you back for a couple of hours, certainly if you want to make a good deal. You need to visit several similar shops to find out what they have in store and check their initial quotes before you start bargaining.
• Good Mood – And this brings me to maybe the most important piece of advice: make sure you’re in a good mood. With over 250.000 shoppers/visitors a day, you’ll obviously not be shopping alone. Moreover, the Grand Bazaar is nothing like your regular shopping mall. There is no such thing as window-shopping. Be prepared to interact with hundreds of cajoling shop owners.

Finding Your Way In and Out Of the Grand Bazaar

With its 21 gates, finding an entrance to the Grand Bazaar (marked on the Map with Tourist Attractions in the Historical Part of Istanbul) is fairly easy. Chances are though that you’ll use one of the five major gates (see map below):

1. Beyazıt Kapısı (Çadırcılar Caddesi, Book Bazaar (Sahaflar Çarşısı)
2. Çarşıkapı (Beyazıt tram stop)
3. Nuruosmaniye Kapısı
4. Mahmut Paşa Kapısı
5. Örücüler Kapısı (towards Eminönü and the Spice Bazaar)

When you walk from any of the major sightseeing spots in Sultanahmet, you’ll probably take the first right off Yeniçeriler Caddesi (the extension of Divan Yolu Caddesi, the one with the tramway). Look for the sign in the picture.

Finding your way out of the Grand Bazaar maze may turn out to be a bigger challenge. Depending on where you want to go after shopping, you need to try to find the correct gate. Luckily, these days there are new and clear ‘road’ signs in place. Nevertheless, make sure you have written down the name of the gate on a piece of paper or print out the map below.

Where to Find What in the Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is famous for the following items:

• Leather (brown on the map)
• Gold Jewelry (yellow on the map)
• Silverware (yellow on the map)
• Antiques (orange-brown on the map)
• Copperware (İç Bedesten)
• Carpets (orange-brown on the map)
• Handbags, Briefcases & Suitcases (pink on the map)
• (Cheap) Clothing (Sandal Bedesten)
• Fabric (purple on the map)
• Belly-dancing costumes (pink on the map)
• Ceramic & Souvenirs (pink & green on the map)

Luckily for you, most shops are more or less grouped together into sections, according to what they sell. Click on the above map of the Grand Bazaar to enlarge it and look for the color codes. To make it as readable and useful as possible, it will open in a new browser window.

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The Grand Bazaar in the historical part of Istanbul is an intriguing maze of over 4.000 shops. Below you’ll find a fair impression it.

There are two versions available: a YouTube version (smaller in size) and a WVM version (bigger in size). The length of both movies is the same: 2:48 min.

Enjoy!

YouTube Version

Local Version

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The Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı), built in the 15th century, is the oldest covered market in the world. Covering an area of 54.653 square meters, it also still ranks as one of the world’s biggest covered markets. In other words, keep on reading if you want to be prepared before entering this maze of 56 interconnecting vaulted passages, housing over 4.000 shops with persistent shopkeepers eager to use their relentless sales tricks.

Grand Bazaar (Kapalı Çarşı)
Location
There are four main entrances to the Grand Bazaar.
Tel: +90 212 522 31 73 – +90 212 519 12 48
on Map with Tourist Attractions in the Historical Part of Istanbul
Open
Daily between 08.30 and 19.00. Closed on Sundays and October 29th. The bazaar is also closed for the full duration of religious holidays.
Ticket Sales
The entrance is free.

This series on the Grand Bazaar will cover:

• The history of the Grand Bazaar (see below)
• The Grand Bazaar Photo Gallery
• The Grand Bazaar Video Gallery
• The Grand Bazaar Essentials, including a map, tips and tricks

The Grand Bazaar Started Out Small

The Grand Bazaar was commissioned by Mehmet II (1444-1481) immediately after the Ottoman conquest of Istanbul in 1453 to provide financial resources for the Hagia Sophia.
The construction of the Grand Bazaar began in 1461. The Grand Bazaar, which was a wooden structure at the beginning, is now entirely built of stone and brick. Bricks were used for the vaulted arches, cut stones were used at the base of the arches, and walls were built by plastering over bricks or stone.

The oldest building is the Cevahir or İç Bedesten. The second oldest building is the Sandal Bedesten. Bedesten, a vaulted and fireproofed segment of the Grand Bazaar, gets its name from bez (cloth) and means cloth seller’s market. Both bedestens are typical examples of classical Ottoman architecture.

The Cevahir Bedesten, initially built for cloth trading and separated from the rest of the Grand Bazaar by four gates, later developed into a market for gold and precious stones. Located in the center of the Grand Bazaar, it also houses a bank.

Named after a type of cloth woven of silk and cotton fibers, the Sandal Bedesten spans an area of 2.435 square meters and is covered by 20 lead-plated domes. The Istanbul Municipality used the Sandal Bedesten as an auction house 1914 to 1980.

The Grand Bazaar Today

The Grand Bazaar reached its present size after the surrounding streets were provided overhead cover using canvas and the neighboring hans were integrated into it. Hans (inns) are two- or three-storied buildings. The shops within the hans were called hucre (cell) and they faced the square or rectangular inner court.

Every street was dedicated to a profession. Today most of these professions have disappeared but their memories live on through the names of the streets. Initially the roofs of the domes were covered with lead sheets. Later clay tiles from Marseille were used and today they are covered with ordinary tiles.

Competition was banned in the Grand Bazaar. Up to the 19th century, the shops, called dolap, did not have a name or signboard.
The Grand Bazaar underwent restoration only after the 1894 earthquake. It was after that when Western style signboards and display windows started being used. While there were 29 hans before the restoration process, only 17 were left after the restoration.

Up until recently the Grand Bazaar was home to 5 mosques, 1 school, 7 fountains, 10 wells, 1 water dispenser and 1 ablution fountain. Today only 1 mosque and 1 ablution fountain are left.

It has 21 gates, 2 bedestens, 17 inns, 56 streets, nearly 4000 shops and employs more than 30.000 people.

Tourist Trap or Not?

For centuries the Grand Bazaar was the most vital centre of commerce, handicraft and finance in the Mediterranean and Near East.

Today, many may refer to the Grand Bazaar as a tourist trap, but that’s a distortion of the truth. Sure, without proper preparation for a visit to the Grand Bazaar, you may be an easy prey for the seasoned shopkeepers. But if you know how to bargain like a Turk, you can make excellent deals for authentic leather items, carpets, gold, silver or souvenirs; just like the locals do.
In the end, the Grand Bazaar was and is a place where (import/export) businesses flourish. The fact that it became a tourist attraction is of course a nice extra.

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