If this is your first time to Istanbul, you’ll be spending most of your time in this area of town. Simply because it is home to most of the unmissable and famous sights. The historical part of Istanbul is the area south of the Golden Horn and consists of boroughs such as Beyazıt, Eminönü, Fatih, Kumkapı, Sirkeci, Süleymaniye, Sultanahmet, and Tahtakale. Below you find an overview of the ones you may (unknowingly) wander around in as a tourist.

Sultanahmet

The Blue Mosque, seen from Sultanahmet Square.

Sultanahmet is by far the most important borough of the historical part of Istanbul. It was the heart of the Byzantine, Constantine and Ottoman empires. Today people still refer to Sultanahmet as the historical heart of Istanbul. It has the highest concentration of tourist attractions, all barely a few minutes away from each other and well within walking distance.

Divan Yolu – the main street with the tramway – is the spine of Sultanahmet, while Sultanahmet Square is the obvious starting point for your tourist excursions. It’s a central location from which the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapi Place, the Hippodrome and the Basilica Cistern can be reached easily.

For impressions of Sultanahmet, please visit the Sultanahmet video gallery and the Sultanahmet photo gallery.

Beyazıt

If you start walking slightly uphill on Divan Yolu – leaving Sultanahmet Square behind you – you’ll end up in Beyazıt. Upon reaching Beyazıt Square, you can see the Beyazıt Tower and the Beyazıt University which was founded on 30 May 1453, the day after Mehmet II the Conqueror captured Istanbul. Beyazıt Square is also one of the main entrances to the Grand Bazaar. Also worth mentioning in this borough is the book bazaar (Sahaflar Çarşısı) – a charming booksellers courtyard.

Süleymaniye

The main attraction in this area is the Süleymaniye Mosque. To reach it, from Beyazıt Square walk around the university from the left-hand side until your reach the street of the addicts.

Eminönü

Eminönü, bustling with activity during the day but awfully quiet at night.

Located completely within the old city walls, Eminönü has always been a crucial settlement for the transportation and trade throughout the history. After the 10th century the Latin colonies, mostly the Genoese, settled in this Byzantine town and built their own piers to trade. During the Ottoman Empire the area kept on playing its role as trade center, and received with the Sirkeci train station some added value.

During the Turkish Republic period the face of the area changed drastically. The buildings in front of the New Mosque (Yeni Camii) and the ticket boxes for crossing the bridge were demolished; some buildings around the Spice Bazaar were cleared out while others were renovated. Although until the late 50s the area’s population kept on growing, today the residential population decreased massively due to the trade and business.

The city ferry line piers (among the Scenic Bosphorus Ferry Cruise dock) and the inner city bus terminal by the sea, the New Mosque, the Spice Bazaar and various shops surrounding those landmarks are the most prominent features of Eminönü.

Sirkeci

The most important attraction is the Sirkeci train station – once the final station of the Orient Express. The main street is called Ankara Caddesi and climbs up the hill to Cağaloğlu which used to be the press center.

Also the ferries heading for the Princes’ Islands as well as the car ferries to Harem on the Asian side are located on the seaside part of Sirkeci. Büyük Postane – the building of Istanbul’s postal authorities – is the biggest postal building in Turkey.

Tahtakale

Tahtakale is located south-west of the Spice Bazaar and famous for its coffee. Coffee came to Istanbul in 1519 after Selim I the Grim conquered Egypt and Hedjaz. The first kahvehane (café serving only coffee or tea) of Istanbul was opened in 1554 in Tahtakale by two merchants. The first customers were the bureaucrats. In those days kahvehanes were places for the intellectuals and entertainment lovers to socialize, discuss art, and play chess or backgammon. In those days being able to join these gatherings meant being accepted and approved by the community.

Located so close to the port of Eminönü, Tahtakale has always been the center of trade with dozens of shops cramped in its small streets. Before 1980 it was famous for illegal foreign exchange which was banned in those days. After the ban was lifted the area lost that reputation but is still very well-known for the variety and authenticity of the shops located in its narrow and crowded streets.

Kumkapı

Today Kumkapı is still famous for its fish restaurants.

In Byzantine days its name was Kontoskalion, meaning small pier. In Turkish, Kumkapı means ’sand gate’. It was one of the gates in the old city walls. Up until recent times, the residential population of Kumkapı was mostly Armenian. They still have a community school and several churches there. It is also the seat of the Armenian Patriarchate of Constantinople. Today Kumkapı is famous for its various fish restaurants and taverns located in car free streets – Nevizade style.

Fatih

The name of this borough comes from Mehmed II the Conqueror. Today it is still accepted as the real Istanbul. It is also one of the most conservative parts of Istanbul.

The most eminent historical values in the area are the Valens Aqueduct (Bozdoğan Kemeri) located on the Atatürk Boulevard, Yedikule Fortress, the Palace of Porphyrogenitus (Tekfur Sarayı), the Fethiye Mosque, the Kariye Mosque, the Gül Mosque (a former Byzantine church), the Fenari Isa Mosque (a complex of two Byzantine churches), the Greek Patriarchate with the Church of St George, the Yavuz Selim Mosque and the famous Fatih Mosque. The latter is the first mosque built within the medresseh (medrese) in Ottoman history.

The tombs of Mehmed II the Conqueror (Fatih Sultan Mehmet), Selim I the Grim (Yavuz Sultan Selim) and some of the leading statesmen of the Ottoman Empire, including Gazi Osman Pasha, are in Fatih.

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A month ago, Midpoint Café & Restaurant opened up its eighth branch. In Taksim of all places, the heart of the modern part of Istanbul. And not just somewhere in Taksim! It’s located right in the middle of the busy Istiklal Caddesi shopping street.

Midpoint (Midpoint)
Location
Tom Tom Mah., İstiklal Caddesi 187, Beyoğlu
on Map with My Favorite Cafés and Pubs in the Modern Part of Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 245 70 40 – 41
Open
Daily till past midnight.
Credit cards are accepted.
Make reservations if you want good seating arrangements.

Two Seasons, Two Views

The café and restaurant is designed to please you no matter the season. For the colder days they have a spacious covered area consisting of a nice mix of wood and glass, with giant windows facing İstiklal Caddesi from where you can watch the Istanbul people mix stroll by. Noteworthy is the fact that if the weather permits, these windows can be opened completely.
From spring to winter however, there is the roof terrace. Not a high-rise one, but still enough to provide you with a nice glimpse of Kadıköy on the Asian side, Topkapi Palace, the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet, and the entrance to the Golden Horn.

I was lucky. Not only did the mild November weather allow me to sit outside, arriving at 18:00 without reservation proved to be just in time. By 18:30 there was not a single table left on their rather big terrace. Sure, they could have stuffed some more tables on it, but apparently the people at Midpoint understood that sitting like sardines in a can is not good practice. No matter how comfortable the chairs are. Bottom line: since you’re most likely to arrive a bit after six in the evening, make reservations.

Excellent Food and Service

With the sun setting, the candles being lit and nice background music putting me in the right mood, I ordered the Chicken Quesadella (TL 13,5). A very tasty tortilla filled with a sautéed hot pepper mix, chicken pieces, yellow cheese and served with French fries, Mediterranean greens and a salsa sauce.
A tough but excellent choice out of their very varied menu with starters (TL 12-15), salads (TL 13-17,5), sandwiches , burgers, quesadillas, wraps (tortilla) and burgers (TL 12-15), pastas (TL 12,5-15,5), 12 chicken dishes (TL 16-17) and over 15 meat dishes (TL 19-21). I wouldn’t recommend the place if you’re a fish connoisseur, with only 5 fish plates on the menu, each TL 20.
During the weekdays and until noon you can have a breakfast plate for TL 17,5 but in the weekend you have two hours extra to order. Drinks are all reasonable priced between TL 8-9.

Exactly Midpoint

You can’t pick a better location to open up a café or restaurant called Midpoint. But that doesn’t mean it’s easy to find the place. Coming form Taksim Square, you walk down towards Tünel and pass Çiçek Pasajı, Balık Pasajı, Galatasaray Lisesi until you reach Oda Kule on your right. You can’t miss really; it’s one of the oldest and now ugliest ‘high-rise’ office buildings in Istanbul, with a small shopping arcade underneath it.
Right across from it, on your left, you’ll see yet another shopping arcade – İstiklal Caddesi has plenty of them – and the entrance to Midpoint right next to it. Enter the building and take the stairs (no elevator!) to the first floor.

If the small flight of stairs didn’t make you breathless, the stylish room will. From the outside you would never give it a worthy look, but they really outdid themselves in renovating this previously shaggy ‘beer garden’.

In the future I think we’ll see people meet more and more in Midpoint instead of standing in front of the Galatasaray Lisesi gates.

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After visiting main tourist attractions such as the Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque or Topkapi Palace and before descending into the Basilica Cistern or heading to the Grand Bazaar, people often end up in the Sultan Pub for a refreshing drink. Not surprising, given its location. It’s the first pub you come across on Divanyolu Caddesi. But by taking a few strides extra, you can save quit a bit of money!

Bodrum Cafe & Restaurant (Bodrum Cafe & Restaurant)
Location
Divanyolu Caddesi, Şeftali Sokak 16, Sultanahmet
on Map with My Favorite Cafés and Pubs in the Historical Part of Istanbul
Tel: +90 212 526 94 71
Open
Daily till around midnight.
Credit cards are accepted.

The Bodrum Café & Restaurant is located next to the Sultan Pub, which is the first establishment you’ll see on Divanyolu Caddesi while coming back from Sultanahmet Square. With its nice outdoor tables located on the corner of the street, it’s an excellent spot to enjoy a refreshment and watch the world go by.

But if you make a right and walk less than ten meters extra, you’ll find the Bodrum Café & Restaurant. It also has an outside terrace with comfortable chairs and there are still plenty of people walking by to observe. But, not only do they serve the same kind of drinks, they charge significantly less. On top of it all, the pub is located adjacent to the park, hence further away from the tramway (noise).

Don’t get me wrong, there is nothing wrong with the Sultan Pub, but why settle for it when just a few steps further you can get more value for your money.

They also serve food, but I never ate there. For a quick snack, I prefer the Sultanahmet Köftecisi around the corner and for a full course dinner I there are better restuarants in my Istanbul food and beverage guide.

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The Sultanahmet neighborhood, located in the historical part of Istanbul, is the focal point of first time visitors to Istanbul. Below you’ll find a fair impression it.

There are two versions available: a YouTube version (smaller in size) and a WVM version (bigger in size). The length of both movies is the same: 2:59 min.

Enjoy!

YouTube Version

Local Version

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There are basically two options: south of the Golden Horn or north of it.
The good news is that there is no good or bad area. It’s just a matter of preference. The bad news is that you should expect to spend plenty of time in taxis, regardless of the area you choose. Why? Because most visitors tend to spend a fair amount of time in both areas. Luckily taxis come rather cheap!

North or South of the Golden Horn?

Map of Istanbul with the Golden Horn, the Modern Part of Istanbul, and the Historical Part of Istanbul.

The Golden Horn (Haliç, see blue area on map) is the river-mouth that is spanned by the Galata and the Atatürk bridges. South of the Golden Horn, you’ll find the historical part of Istanbul (red area on map). North of the Golden Horn is the modern part of Istanbul (purple area on map) and basically means Beyoğlu (Taksim), the business and entertainment district.

South of the Golden Horn has traditionally been the centre for the city’s budget and mid-range accommodation, with a lot of historical hotels and pensions, while Beyoğlu (and Taksim in particular) was the place to be for four star and deluxe hotels. To a certain extend this is still the case, but in recent years both areas can offer a wide variety in hotel choices. For an overview of my favorite hotels, check out recommended hotels in the historical part of Istanbul and recommended hotels in the modern part of Istanbul.

So, based on what should I pick an area?

Both areas have their pros and cons. If you want to sleep within walking distance of top sightseeing attractions like Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar and the Basilica Cistern or enjoy breakfast on a rooftop terrace while admiring the cleavage created by the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, then you can’t go wrong south of the Golden Horn. The downside is however that the streets tend to get less crowded after sundown and good night-entertainment is rather scarce.

Beyoğlu on the other hand misses out on the romance and views offered in Sultanahmet, but largely compensates this with its Bosphorus views, countless cozy (rooftop) restaurants and lively bars and nightclubs, all just a short stagger home afterwards.

And the winner is…

Over the years I have stayed in both areas and had to find lodging for numerous visitors. Based on those experiences I favor a stay north of the Golden Horn. Certainly if your city-trip exceeds a three-night stay, since this means you’ll travel outside the boundaries of Sultanahmet and its neighboring districts. In which case Taksim is ideally located as the centre for your excursions. Even if this means you need to take a 15-minute taxi ride (or double in rush hour but still only TL 10) to reach Sultanahmet.

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