Although this part of town houses less historical landmarks than the historical part of Istanbul, neglecting the modern part of Istanbul would be a shame. It still has a fair amount of must-see sightseeing spots and is the place to be if you’re in for shopping, wining and dining or a great night out. The modern part of Istanbul is the area north of the Golden Horn and consists of boroughs such as Beşiktaş, Galata, Karaköy, Nişantaşı, Ortaköy, Şişli, and Taksim. Below you find an overview of the ones you may (unknowingly) wander around in as a tourist.

Taksim

Taksim Square symbolizes the heart of modern Istanbul and is a popular meeting point for a day or night out. Leisure time in this area is mostly spent on Istiklal Caddesi or one of its many side streets. Taksim is ‘open’ day and night, seven days a week – it’s a place where you’ll never walk alone! During the day the place is packed with shoppers, and after dusk it remains a bustling area with party animals conquering the streets till early morning.

You can find footage of the borough in the Taksim video gallery. For still impressions, visit the Taksim photo gallery or the Istiklal Caddesi photo gallery.

Beşiktaş

Beşiktaş - Istanbul, Turkey.

Located in the intersection of Barbaros Boulevard, Beşiktaş Avenue and Çırağan Avenue, the Beşiktaş borough lends its name to the district of Beşiktaş.

In Byzantine times Beşiktaş was known for the Ayios Mamas Palace (the emperors’ summer residence), the Fokas Monastery, and the Ayios Mihael Church. The latter was built in the period of Constantine I and was a famous center for Greek, Armenian and Georgian pilgrims. The residence identity of the area came during the Ottoman era. The cove of Beşiktaş was convenient/favorable/suitable to use as a dock even before the 17th century. So, Barbarossa Hayreddin Pasha (1478-1546) – the chief commander of the navy in the Ottoman Empire (Kaptan-ı Derya) – started to use the bay to anchor the Ottoman fleet. He had a seaside mansion (yalı) built for himself and stayed there when he was in Istanbul.

In the 17th century the bay became a swamp. So it was filled and turned into a refined garden area for the Ottoman sultans. From then on palaces and kiosks/villas were built for the sultans and their relatives. Mahmut II – who officially reigned in Topkapı Palace for 31 years (1808-1839) – actually spent most of his time in the palaces of Beşiktaş. Finally his son Abdülmecit had the Dolmabahçe Palace built in 1855 and Beşiktaş became the official residence of the sultans.

Although after the declaration of the Turkish Republic Beşiktaş lost its reputation for hosting the sultans. However, it kept its importance since Atatürk stayed in the Dolmabahçe Palace when he was in Istanbul and he also died there.
Beşiktaş gives its name to the Turkey’s oldest sports club – Beşiktaş Gymnastics Club (Beşiktaş Spor Kulübü) It is also the third football club founded in Turkey. Beşiktaş Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa Pier, the monument of Barbaros, the tomb of Barbaros Hayreddin Paşa (Türbesi), the Sinan Paşa Mosque and the Istanbul Naval Museum (İstanbul Deniz Müzesi) are the places of interest.

Ortaköy

Ortaköy by night, taken from the Bosphorus in Istanbul, Turkey.

One of the popular boroughs in the Beşiktaş district is Ortaköy, literally translated ‘middle village’. It inherited the name from its location: in the middle of the European bank of the Bosphorus. One of the main characteristics of Ortaköy is that it has always been a cosmopolitan area which hosts Turkish, Greek, Armenian and Jewish communities. Today it is one of the main places of interest for locals and tourists alike because of its seaside cafés, restaurants, night clubs and bars spread around the area. Unfortunately, Ortaköy is also very well-known for its packed traffic, especially at the weekends.

The most outstanding structure of this small neighborhood is the Ortaköy Mosque which is located by the sea on the Ortaköy square. The Neo-Baroque style designed mosque was ordered by Ottoman sultan Abdülmecit.

Galata

Located on the northern shore of the Golden Horn, Galata is sloped and goes downwards to the sea from a hilltop. It is one of the historically rich boroughs of the Beyoğlu district. The famous Galata Tower on the small square of Galata and the Galata Bridge take their names from Galata, which means Celtic in Greek. It is believed that the Celtic tribe of Galatians camped in the area. After looting the Balkans and the west of Anatolia around BC 280-274, Galatians settled in the central Anatolia around Ankara and Yozgat.

The Galatasaray Lyceé (halfway on Istiklal Caddesi), the famous Galatasary Football team (Galatasaray Futbol Kulübü) and the Galata Mevlevihanesi Whirling Dervishes Lodge on Galip Dede Street also take their names from Galata. On Büyük Hendek Avenue you can find the Neve Shalom Synagogue which is the central and largest Sephardic synagogue in Istanbul. Down by the seaside the Galata dock stretches 758 meters long from the Galata Bridge towards Fındıklı on the north-east European bank of the Bosphorus. Although located in Karaköy it is named after Galata. Built between 1892 and 1895, the Galata dock is Istanbul’s and also Turkey’s first modern dock where the cruise ships anchor.

Karaköy

The Kamondo Steps in Karaköy, Istanbul.

Karaköy is one of the oldest and historical boroughs of the Beyoğlu district. Located on the northern part of the Golden Horn mouth on the European side of the Bosphorus and connected to Eminönü by the Galata Bridge, Karaköy has been the center of trade serving as a dock since the Byzantine era.

In the last 10 years of the 19th century the area became the banking center with the Osmanlı Bankası. This bank, which played the role of treasury and government bank, opened its central building here, followed by the Italian and Austrian insurance companies.

Today, serving a hub for both intercity and international transport, Karaköy is also an important commercial center with various mechanical, plumbing, electronic and electrical appliance shops in the Perşembe Pazarı.
Noteworthy cosmopolite monuments and places of interest are:

• The Zulfaris Synagogue used as the Five-hundredth Anniversary Foundation Museum of Turkish Jews (500. Yıl Vakfı Türk Musevileri Müzesi), inaugurated on November 25, 2001
• Istanbul Modern, Turkey’s the first and only private museum for contemporary art inaugurated in 2004
• Turned into a mosque by Mehmet II the Conqueror in 1475, the Arab Mosque is the only remaining Gothic church from the ante Ottoman period
• Donated by the Sephardic Jewish banker Abraham Kamondo, the baroque style built Kamondo Stairs climb up the hill from Voyvoda Street to the 19th century neighborhoods.

Completely safe during day time, yet not to be wandered after dusk, Karaköy has also name and fame for the city’s red light district.

Şişli

The Şişli borough is located in the Şişli district, located between the Sarıyer district in the north, the Beşiktaş district in the east, the Eyüp and Kağıthane districts in the west and the Beyoğlu district in the south.

Full of farming fields and vineyards the area had very little settlement until the mid 19th century. The trading middle-class Levantines, Jews, Greeks, Armenians and also Turks who lost their houses in the 1870 fire of Beyoğlu moved to the area and built homes with an European look: big stone buildings with high ceilings and art nouveau wrought-iron balconies.

The first horse pulled tramways started operating in 1871 and its line reached Şişli in 1881. In 1898 the Şişli Etfal hospital was built in the memory of Abdülhamid II’s daughter who died when she was only eight months old. Şişli became the last stop of the electrical tramway in 1913 and from then on it kept on growing rapidly. After the foundation of the Turkish Republic Şişli kept on building on the main road (Halaskargazi Street) and the area around it.

Today offices, banks, big shops, cafes, and restaurants occupy the large buildings on the avenues, yet the back streets are still residential. Europe’s largest and the world’s second largest (urban-area) shopping mall, Cevahir, is located in Şişli. Built in Ottoman style, the Şişli Mosque is a grand landmark situated between the Halaskargazi and Abidei Hürriyet Avenues.

Nişantaşı

Nişantaşı, home to the jet-set of Istanbul, Turkey.

Within the Şişli district Nişantaşı is located on the Vali Konağı Avenue and is surrounded by the Maçka, Harbiye, Osmanbey and Teşvikiye neighborhoods.

The area was used by the Ottoman soldiers to improve their shooting skills on target stones. Nişantaşı means ‘target stone’ and that’s where the name of the area comes from. In the mid 19th century Sultan Abdülmecid established two obelisks to set the beginning and the ending points of the borough. He also ordered the construction of the Teşvikiye Mosque and the police station. The area grew in the second half of the 19th century and became popular due to its central position, being close to both the Yıldız Palace and Pera (Beyoğlu).

Until the 1930s Nişantaşı was the area of mansion houses, after which its face rapidly changed to elegant apartment blocks. Its Art Nouveau apartment buildings are still well-known.

Today Nişantaşı is one of Istanbul’s most residential estates boroughs with luxurious restaurants, cafes, pubs, night clubs, galleries, boutiques and stores of world famous brands. It is the hometown of wealthy and well-educated figures of the Turkish jet-set, culture and art.

[Photo Credit Kamondo Steps: bu]

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Earlier we covered the most interesting spots on Istiklal Caddesi between Taksim Square and Galata Lisesi. Today we’ll take you from Galata Square to Tünel, the world’s second-oldest subway.

Once you’ve made it to the end of Istiklal Caddesi, I recommend you either walk back or take the old tram to the halfway point, and start looking for a nice café. Make sure though that it has one or more of these huge (removable) windows and find a table by the street side. Order a drink and enjoy watching the crowds pass by. After half an hour, you’ll have a great idea what the Istanbul population mix looks like.

Places of Interest on Istiklal Caddesi

• St. Antuan or Sant’Antonio di Padova Cathedral: the cathedral is located on the left-hand side, 200 meters away from the Galatasaray Lycée in the direction of Tünel. The cathedral has the largest building and community of the Roman Catholic Church in Istanbul. The first cathedral was built in 1725 by the local Italian community of Istanbul. The building we see today replaced the previous one and was built in the Venetian Neo-Gothic style between 1906 and 1912 by an Istanbul born, Italian architect Giulio Mogneri. The cathedral is run by Italian priests. On different days of the week the masses are in Italian, English and Turkish.
• Odakule İş Merkezi (Business Centre Tower): located at no. 142, on the right, you’ll find the Odakule İş Merkezi. The building was built by the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce. The building houses several holdings, companies and an art gallery. It is commonly used as a reference point to find an address around the area easily. Given its age, the tower is currently among Istanbul’s ugliest, making it hard to miss. Just in case, look for no. 142.
• Beyoğlu İş Merkezi Passage: across the Business Centre Tower, you will see the entrance of the Beyoğlu İş Merkezi, which is recently renovated passage with shops and offices. Right next to it you can find the entrance to the Midpoint café and restaurant.
• Consulate-General of Netherlands: the consulate is located on the left-hand side, at no. 197.
• Consulate-General of Russia: located at no. 443, 200 meters further than the Consulate-General of the Netherlands, again on the left.
• Consulate-General of Sweden: walk approximately 500 meters further than the Consulate-General of Netherlands, look for no 497.
• Tunnel (Tünel): 150 meters further than the Consulate-General of Sweden the street makes a small curve to the right. That’s it. You are at the end of Istiklal Caddesi where you can see the entrance of Tunnel (Tünel). It connects Beyoğlu with Karaköy.

Places of Interest just off Istiklal Caddesi

• Terkoz Çıkmazı: look for a small street across the Consulate-General of the Netherlands called Terkoz Çıkmazı. It’s a dead end street where you can find gazillions of textiles goods for quite cheap prices. However, look thoroughly for small defects and always remember to bargain.
• French Palace (Fransız Sarayı): take Yeni Çarşı Street which goes down the hill next to the Galatasaray Lycée. Look for the Nur-i Ziya Street, the second street on your left. On your left you will see Fransız Sarayı (French Palace). The land belongs to France for more than four centuries. The building on the land was built in 1839. Today its the Istanbul residence of the French Ambassador.
• Consulate-General of Italy: follow Yeni Çarşı Street which goes down the hill next to Galatasaray Lycée and walk approximately 600 meters. Take Tomtom Kaptan Street on your right. You will see Consulate-General of Italy at no 15, on your left.
• Pera Palace Hotel: follow the alley next to the Odakule Business Centre Tower, which will connect you to Meşrutiyet Street. Turn left at the point where you connect to the street and follow the street. Before the street ends on your left you will see the Pera Palas Otel which is the oldest European hotel of Turkey. The hotel was built in 1892 in order to host the passengers of the Orient Express. Agatha Christie wrote her most famous novel, Murder on the Orient Express, in this hotel, and her room is still conserved as a museum.
• Leb-i Derya: take Kumbaracı Yokuşu Street down the hill on your left just after you pass the Russian Consulate. 150 Meters down the hill on your right you will see the fabulous Leb-i Derya (no. 57/6).
• Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi: follow the Şahkulu Bostan Street on your left next to the Consulate-General of Sweden. On your right you will see the Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi (no 8). This former municipality wedding building is since 1993 used as a cultural center with a multi-purpose conference room, movie theatre, exhibition room and a theatre stage.
• German School Istanbul (Özel Alman Lisesi): take Şahkulu Bostan Street and go passed Tarık Zafer Tunaya Kültür Merkezi. You will reach the Özel Alman Lisesi or Deutsche Schule Istanbul located at no. 20. The school started in 1868 with only 24 students. It has raised a lot of important people for Turkish society, among which journalists, musicians, artist, actors and politicians.
• Galata Mevlevihanesi: take the Galip Dede Street just after you pass the Consulate-General of Sweden. You will see the Galata Mevlevihanesi at no. 15. This dervish lodge, which is also used as a museum, was opened to the public in 1975.
• Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi): follow the Galip Dede Street just after you pass the Consulate-General of Sweden and keep on walking for approximately 500 meters down the hill. You will reach an intersection of streets, with on your right the Galata Tower which was first built in 1384 by Genoese. The cone-capped tower provides a magnificent view of the Golden Horn.

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Located in the Beyoğlu district in the modern part of Istanbul, Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Street) is the most famous pedestrian street in Istanbul. This three kilometer long avenue stretches from Taksim Square to Tünel, the world’s second-oldest subway. Galatasaray Square, with its prestigious high school (Galatasaray Lisesi), is considered as the midpoint of this elegant boulevard packed with nice boutiques, art galleries, theatres, cinema’s libraries, restaurants, patisseries, cafés, pubs and nightclubs. Some of them still housed in authentic 19th century Turkish architecture buildings (see history of Istiklal Caddesi).

This is the first of a two post series. In this post we’ll take you from Taksim Square to the Galata Square, and in the second post we’ll cover the area from Galata Square until Tünel.

Places of Interest on Istiklal Caddesi

• French Consulate General: the consulate is located on the right-hand side at the very beginning of Istiklal Caddesi, no. 8
• Hüseyin Ağa Mosque (Hüseyin Ağa Camii): 350 meters down the French Consulate on the right you will see the Hüseyin Ağa Camii, built in 1596. After surviving a big fire, it was restored in 1934. In the yard of the mosque you’ll find the graves of Hüseyin Ağa who had the mosque built and Davud Ağa, another Ottoman Empire Chief (Ağa) of the palace. There is also a fountain made by Mimar Sinan, the very famous Ottoman Empire architect.
• Ortaoyuncular Sahnesi: approximately 400 meters further, again on the right-hand side, you will see the Ortaoyuncular Sahnesi. This old theatre, originally called Ses Tiyatrosu, was built in 1885 by the architect Campanaki. It is located in Halep Passage, no. 140
• Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı): the Flower Passage – aka Cite de Pera – is considered as the most ornamented and well-known building in the Beyoğlu district. You can’t miss really, but just in case, look for no. 172.
• Galata Square (Galata Meydanı): this intersection of Istiklal Caddesi with Meşrutiyet Avenue and Yeni Çarşı Avenue, is located almost in the middle of Istiklal Caddesi, opposite to the Flower Passage.
• Galatasaray Lyceé (Galatasaray Lisesi): in 1481, during the reign of Bayezıd II., Galata Sarayı Hümayun Mektebi was established as a school to educate top level qualified people for the palace. Since 1868 the school is called Galatasaray Lycée (Galatasaray Lisesi) and an incredible amount of important people for the country graduated from this school, among which famous actors, writers, politicians, sportsmen, and journalists.
• Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim Tör Museum: on the other side of the Yeni Çarşı Street, across the Galatasaray Lycée, on the corner, you will see Yapı Kredi Vedat Nedim Tör Müzesi, no. 285. The museum has besides the world’s 3rd biggest coin collection, metal, embroidery, fabric, manuscript, tombac, and rosary collections. It also has four different exhibitions of private collectors’ items. The entrance to the museum is free.

Places of Interest just off Istiklal Caddesi

• Hagia Triada: take Meşelik Street across French Consulate, and on your left you will find the Greek Orthodox Church Hagia Triada.
• Galatasaray Turkish Bath (Galatasaray Hamamı): take Turnacıbaşı Street just after you pass Halep Passage on your right, then take the street on the left. You will reach the historical Galatasaray Hamamı, a Turkish bath which was built in 1481 by the order of Ottoman Sultan Bayezıd II.
• Consulate-General of Greece: keep on walking on Turnacıbaşı Street, pass the Galatasaray Hamamı, and 200 meters further on your right you will reach the Consulate-General of Greece, no. 32.
• Nevizade: take the first street just after Halep Passage on your right, Balo Street, or the next one, Solakzade Street. Walk a little less than 200 meters after which you’ll reach the famous Nevizade Street on your left packed with pubs and restaurants. On your right, you will see the James Joyce Irish Pub.
• Fish Bazaar (Balık Pazarı): take the first street, Sahne Sokak, on your right next to the Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı) and you are in the Balık Pazarı.
• British Embassy: follow the Meşrutiyet Avenue across Galatasaray Lycée, which will lead you to the British Embassy on your left.

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People who visited Istanbul’s Istiklal Caddesi (İstiklal Caddesi) in the new millennium will tell you that it’s a busy but pleasant pedestrian street in the Beyoğlu district, housing a huge variety of shops, galleries, restaurants, bars and cinemas. And that is exact what Istiklal Caddesi today is. However, most people don’t know that it was formerly known as the ‘Grande Rue de Pera’, Istanbul’s most elegant street and home to the city’s smartest shops, various embassies and churches as well as fashionable residences and tea-houses. A street people wouldn’t dream of taking a stroll on wearing an ordinary pair of jeans. Let me take you on a trip down memory lane.

Istiklal Caddesi before the foundation of Turkey

It wasn’t until the founding of the Republic of Turkey that this famous street received its third and present name. Look for on the Map with Tourist Attractions in the Modern Part of Istanbul. Originally the street was simply called Grand Avenue (Cadde-i Kebir). With the arrival and settlement of non-Muslims and European foreigners in the 17th century, Istiklal Caddesi was referred to as ‘Grand Rue de Pera’.

At the end of the 18th century French, English, Dutch, Greek, Venetian, Spanish, Russian, Swiss and Prussian diplomats built their winter manors in the area. Along with this multi-national population came the still existing variety in religious buildings such as the Roman Catholic churches of Santa Maria and St. Anthony of Padua Cathedral, the Greek Orthodox Haghia Triada, the Armenian Church, and many other churches and synagogues.

In the second half of the 19th century, due to the development of the transportation and increased foreign trade of the Ottoman Empire, the area between Taksim and Galatasaray improved and became a cosmopolite settlement for the merchants, businessmen, bankers, foreigners and rich people who followed the fashion in Paris. At the end of the century all basic facilities that a modern society requires such as water, gas and the tramway were constructed. Three theatres also simultaneously staged the most famous Paris plays of those times.

Istiklal Caddesi after the Republic of Turkey Was Founded

In the 20th century, the connection of the first electrical tramway from Taksim to Şişli made the Taksim-Galatasaray stretch more popular than the Galatasaray-Tünel part.
In the young Republic times Turkish businessmen replaced the foreigners. The Beyoğlu district, and Istiklal Caddesi in particular, became the most modern part of the city. It was the favorite spot of the intellectuals because of the cultural background and variety, together with the presence of renowned restaurants, patisseries, and luxurious shops. The whole street was considered so distinguished that people used to dress up to take a walk or do some shopping in the avenue.

In the 1950s, the influx of immigrants from Turkey’s rural parts to Istanbul caused a sudden, unanticipated growth and rapid urbanization of the city. New formed settlements and changes in the society’s culture made the Beyoğlu district and Istiklal Caddesi lose its crème de la crème profile.

Fortunately, today thanks to an inspired Beyoğlu Beautification Project by the municipality, together with its central location and historical background, the street has regained most of its former status. Istiklal Caddesi is again accepted as the center of the city and packed with people browsing the street with its renovated 19th century Turkish architecture buildings, countless shops and extremely vivid night life. Also see the Istiklal Caddesi photo gallery.

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Taksim Square in Beyoğlu, located in the modern part of Istanbul, is not only considered the heart of modern Istanbul, it’s also a very busy public transportation hub and popular meeting point.

There are two versions available: a YouTube version (smaller in size) and a WVM version (bigger in size). The length of both movies is the same: 4:00 min.

Enjoy!

YouTube Version

Local Version

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Taksim Square (Taksim Meydanı) is considered as the heart of modern Istanbul and symbol of the secular Republic because of the Cumhuriyet Anıtı (Republic Monument) that stands in the middle of the plaza. As a main transportation hub and with numerous hotels, restaurants and pubs surrounding the area, it’s a popular destination for both tourists and locals alike.

History of Taksim Square

Taksim is Arabic for ‘division’ or ‘distribution’. Originally Taksim Square was a water distribution center. In 1732 Sultan Mahmud I ordered the creation of a stone reservoir to collect the water coming from the Belgrade Forest, so it could be distributed to other parts of the city. This stone reservoir can still be seen at the beginning of Istiklal Caddesi.

Taksim Square Today

The Turkish word meydan is translated into English as ‘square’, but actually means ‘large open area’. And that’s really what Taksim Square is: a large open area consisting of two main parts, marked on the Map with Tourist Attractions in the Modern Part of Istanbul.

First there is the rectangle shaped area, which serves as a busy hub. No longer for water though, but for public transportation. Not only is it the main transfer point for the municipal bus system, it’s also the starting point of the Istanbul metro with which you can go as far as Atatürk Oto Sanayii or connect to the Kabataş tramway or seaport. And just 100 meters from Taksim Square, you’ll find the Havaş airport shuttle busses and various dolmuş departure points.

Secondly, there is the triangle shaped area with its garden and the Cumhuriyet Anıtı (Republic Monument) standing in the middle of it. This monument, created by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica and unveiled in 1928, features Atatürk, his assistant and successor Ismet İnönü, and other revolutionary leaders. The plaza is also the terminus for the nostalgic tram that runs on Istiklal Caddesi, connecting you to Tünel.

Surrounding Taksim Square and Meeting Points

Taksim Square is surrounded by various landmarks. The prominent building at the far end of the rectangle is the Atatürk Cultural Centre (Atatürk Kültür Merkezi or simply AKM). Another famous landmark is the Marmara Hotel. Next to the square is an elevated green zone called Taksim Park, through which you can reach the Ceylan International Hotel and the Hyatt Regency.

Also noteworthy is McDonalds. It was the very first McDonalds restaurant to open its doors in Turkey, generating long queues at the time with grandfathers, all dressed-up, taking there grandchildren for a bite in the new tasty hamburger that hit the town. While at the subject of junk food, the various snack bars and junk food restaurants at the entrance of Istiklal Caddesi are also considered landmarks in the eyes of the locals. Not for their nouvelle cuisine obviously, but for a quick bite while staggering home after a great night out.

Taksim Square is also a popular meeting point. No need to stress out to be very specific about the exact location or building. Popular meeting points are the Republic Monument, and in front of Burger King or the French Embassy at the beginning of Istiklal Caddesi.

Police Presence, Demonstrations and Public Events

Don’t be intimidated by the round-the-clock police presence on Taksim Square. Being one of the busiest areas in town, people often want to (ab)use its visibility for the benefit of their cause by demonstrating on the square.

However, following many violent demonstrations, with the Taksim Square massacre of May 1st 1977 being the bloodiest and deadliest, all forms of group protests are banned from the square. Therefore, the police are at all times omnipresent on the square. Mostly moderate, but on some occasions you can see riot-police and armored vehicles gearing up to counter-attack any demonstration suspicion. Take my advice and leave the scene as soon as you notice any form of demonstration and skip Taksim Square altogether on May 1st.

That being said, excluded from the demonstration ban are gatherings for public events such as New Year’s eve, Republic Day celebrations or watching important football matches on giant screens set up for the occasion.

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There are basically two options: south of the Golden Horn or north of it.
The good news is that there is no good or bad area. It’s just a matter of preference. The bad news is that you should expect to spend plenty of time in taxis, regardless of the area you choose. Why? Because most visitors tend to spend a fair amount of time in both areas. Luckily taxis come rather cheap!

North or South of the Golden Horn?

Map of Istanbul with the Golden Horn, the Modern Part of Istanbul, and the Historical Part of Istanbul.

The Golden Horn (Haliç, see blue area on map) is the river-mouth that is spanned by the Galata and the Atatürk bridges. South of the Golden Horn, you’ll find the historical part of Istanbul (red area on map). North of the Golden Horn is the modern part of Istanbul (purple area on map) and basically means Beyoğlu (Taksim), the business and entertainment district.

South of the Golden Horn has traditionally been the centre for the city’s budget and mid-range accommodation, with a lot of historical hotels and pensions, while Beyoğlu (and Taksim in particular) was the place to be for four star and deluxe hotels. To a certain extend this is still the case, but in recent years both areas can offer a wide variety in hotel choices. For an overview of my favorite hotels, check out recommended hotels in the historical part of Istanbul and recommended hotels in the modern part of Istanbul.

So, based on what should I pick an area?

Both areas have their pros and cons. If you want to sleep within walking distance of top sightseeing attractions like Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar and the Basilica Cistern or enjoy breakfast on a rooftop terrace while admiring the cleavage created by the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, then you can’t go wrong south of the Golden Horn. The downside is however that the streets tend to get less crowded after sundown and good night-entertainment is rather scarce.

Beyoğlu on the other hand misses out on the romance and views offered in Sultanahmet, but largely compensates this with its Bosphorus views, countless cozy (rooftop) restaurants and lively bars and nightclubs, all just a short stagger home afterwards.

And the winner is…

Over the years I have stayed in both areas and had to find lodging for numerous visitors. Based on those experiences I favor a stay north of the Golden Horn. Certainly if your city-trip exceeds a three-night stay, since this means you’ll travel outside the boundaries of Sultanahmet and its neighboring districts. In which case Taksim is ideally located as the centre for your excursions. Even if this means you need to take a 15-minute taxi ride (or double in rush hour but still only TL 10) to reach Sultanahmet.

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