Almost on a daily basis I get emails from people about to take a cruise liner to Istanbul. Trying to plan their trip, they have questions like “Where is the cruise port in Istanbul?”, “How far is it from the cruise ship pier in Istanbul to Sultanahmet?” or “What are the transportation options from the cruise ship dock to the main sightseeing spots?” In this post I’ll try to answer these very common questions, and much more.

Where Is the Istanbul Cruise Ship Dock Located?

Location of the cruise ship dock.

Cruise ships dock at the passenger terminal (Yolcu Salonu) in Karaköy. And as a passenger, you couldn’t have dreamt of a more central location to set foot on Istanbul soil. Karaköy is loacted exactly where the Golden Horn flows into the Bosphorus. It is centrally located because it takes about as much time to travel over the Galata Bridge to Eminönü and Sultanahmet (the historical part of Istanbul) as it would take you to reach Taksim (the modern part of Istanbul).

In case Istanbul is the end or start of your international cruise, a taxi between Karaköy and the Atatürk International Airport would set you back for about TL 30 during the daytime.

Do I Need a Visa to Leave the Ship?

Foreigners who arrive in Turkey by cruise liner and sleep on the ship are allowed to enter Turkey without a visa for a maximum period of 72 hours, with the permission given by the local security authorities as soon as you set foot ashore. If you stay longer or stay in Istanbul (or Turkey for that matter) before or after your cruise, you are obliged to obtain a visa.

How To Reach the Various Sightseeing Spots?

• Eminönü – to reach Eminönü, home to the Spice Bazaar, just make a left once leave the passenger terminal (Yolcu Salonu), walk along the boardwalk until you reach the Galata Bridge, and cross it. It shouldn’t be more than a 10 minute stroll. Although Istanbul is among the safest world cities, after sundown and certainly when not accompanied by a man, play safe and take a taxi or the tramway (see below).
• Sultanahmet – you can still walk to Sultanahmet. I would recommend it if you’re in relatively good shape and are not pressed for time. Just cross the Galata Bridge, make a left at the end, cross the pedestrian bridge about 200 meters further and follow the tram rails up the fairly steep hill until you reach Sultanahmet.
  Alternatively, you can walk to the tram stop in Karaköy by making a left once you leave the passenger terminal (Yolcu Salonu) and walk along the boardwalk until you reach the Galata Bridge. Look for a place that says jeton gişesi to buy a TL 1,5 token, and board the tram in the direction of Zeytinburnu. The first stop is Eminönü, the second is Sirkeci Station, the third is Gülhane (Park) and the next one is Sultanahmet. This ride shouldn’t take longer than 5 to 7 minutes.
  A taxi ride, assuming the taxi driver is not hustling you, will cost around TL 7. How long it will take you to get there of course depends on traffic (jams).
• Taksim – again a few options are available. Walking is one of them, but I don’t recommend it. Climbing the steep hill is not only time consuming, it will definately make you sweat in summertime. You can take a taxi, which will set you back for about TL 5. Alternatively you can walk to the Galata Bridge and take either the tramway to Kabataş (the final stop) and connect to Taksim Square via the funicular. Another option is to take Tünel, and find yourself at the end of İstiklal Caddesi, ideal if you want to visit the Galata Tower.
• Princes’ Islands or Asia – if you can’t get enough of sailing and are in for a trip to either the Princes’ Islands or the Asian shore of Istanbul, then take the tramway to Kabataş and use the (quick) ferries or sea buses to reach your destination.

Any Other Questions You May Have

Upon docking in Istanbul, there will be some kind of official welcoming party waiting for you. These people are there to facilitate your stay in Istanbul. You can address them with any questions that may spring to your mind. For example, if you plan to buy some valuables (leather, electronic goods, etc.) you can get a VAT refund. They will tell you what paper to obtain while purchasing your goods, and how to get the tax paid back to you prior to your departure.

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Istanbul is surrounded and divided by water. Because of this you’ll see a bustling activity of floating devices on the Bosphorus, the Sea of Marmara and in the Golden Horn. A whole array of water-borne craft, ranging from privately owned (fishing) boats, over regular ferries (vapur) to a fleet of high-speed catamaran sea buses (deniz otobüsü).

İDO, Istanbul’s Fast Ferry and Sea Bus Company, is the market leader and offers visitors and locals alike probably the most relaxing and quickest way of transportation available in Istanbul. Whether you want to go up and/or down the Bosphorus, travel between the European and Asian shores, or make a short trip to the Princes’ Islands, they have a suitable and cheap solution for all of this.

Destination, Schedule and Ticketing Differences

İDO operates on inner-city and inter-city lines. Inter-city lines head for places such as the Marmara Islands, Bursa or Bandırma, which are all located outside of Istanbul. For these destinations you need to make (online) reservations, preferably a few hours or a day ahead.

But in this article we’ll focus on the inner-city lines, since that is what 99,9% of the tourists need during their stay in Istanbul. To avoid any confusion, the Marmara Islands mentioned earlier are NOT the same at the Princes’ Islands. If you want to visit Büyükada, you are heading for the Princes’ Islands, and they luckily are inner-city.

For inner-city lines you don’t need to make reservations. To get on board, you can either buy a token (jeton) or ticket (bilet) from the booth (gişe) at the pier, or use your akbil. The only exception is the Scenic Bosphorus Tour (by Night), for which you can’t use your akbil and need to pay cash to obtain a ticket.

High-speed ferry or sea bus.

Each destination and every type of boat has its own schedule and dock (see below). Moreover, in wintertime (mid September to mid June) and summertime (mid June to mid September) different timetables apply. Timetable booklets are freely available in Turkish and English at all ferry terminals or online on the excellent İDO website.

Most of the typical tourist destinations are reachable by both type of boats. It’s up to you to decide which craft to use, based on your personal preference. Let me list the pros and consof the two ferry types.

Conventional Ferries

Conventional ferry at sea.

The principal ferry dock on the European side is undoubtedly Eminönü. There are four piers with the destinations clearly written outside, above the boarding hall: Bosphorus (Boğaz), Golden Horn (Haliç), Kadıköy and Üsküdar. Another important dock is located in Kabataş, where you can take a ferry to the Princes’ Islands.

On the Asian side, the main piers are located in Kadıköy (to Beşiktaş, Eminönü, Karaköy and the Princes’ Islands) and in Üsküdar (towards Beşiktaş, Eminönü and Kabataş).

• Pro:
  - boats come and go frequently, on average every 20 minutes
  - you can sit inside or outside on the deck and enjoy a tea & snacks
  - fares are cheap, between TL 1,5 and TL 3 p.p. (Bosphorus tour TL 20)
• Con:
  - they are much slower than the sea buses

Fast Ferries or Sea Buses

Interior of a high-speed sea bus.

The interior of the high-speed catamaran ferries or sea buses resemble aircraft cabins, with long rows of comfortable seats and air-conditioning. The main docks are Bostancı and Kadıköy on the Asian side, and Kabataş, Yenikapı and Bakırköy on the European side. As a tourist, chances are you’ll only use this ferry type to reach the Princes’ Islands from the Kabataş pier.

• Pro:
  - much quicker than the conventional ferries
  - more comfortable than the conventional ferries
• Con:
  - they are more expensive: TL 4 to 6
  - there are only a few departures per day, mostly during commuter hours
  - you can’t sit outside on the deck
  - they are more sensitive to bad weather conditions

One last but important note: smoking is prohibited on all inner-city ferries, even outside on the deck!

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Istanbul has plenty of excellent public transportation options, but the inner-city buses are in my opinion not one of them. For starters, it is not the quickest means of transportation. Unlike Istanbul’s tram and metro system, they don’t have their own lanes and therefore suffer from the chronic Istanbul traffic jams. Secondly, it is not the most comfortable way of transportation. In an attempt to catch up on time lost, bus drivers swing their buses around to find a way through traffic.

Moreover, buses tend to be very crowded throughout the day which makes your chances in finding a seat very slim. And to make things worse, most buses don’t have (properly working) air-conditioning systems, so in summer you’ll most likely start sweating (and smelling) just like the person next to you.

Take my advice and make use of Istanbul’s excellent tram, metro and funicular system, use the (quick) ferries where available and for all other destinations under 15 km take a taxi. But if you personally want to experience a bus ride, here’s how it works.

Different Buses, Same Difference

Privately owned bus

There are two kinds of city buses: the ones operated by the municipality (İETT) and the ones operated by a private company (Özel Halk Otobüsleri). The first ones come in red and white, or green when they use a ‘green’ or gas engines. The private company’s buses are colored in pale blue and green.

Good to know? Yes and no. They both operate under municipal jurisdiction, most of the times they use the same bus stops, they follow the same route, and charge an equal fare. Both will dsiplay their destination either electronically just above the drivers windshield, or in the right bottom corner if the bus is older. The only (small) difference is the way you have to pay for your ride.

How to Pay for Your Ride

To board an İETT bus, you must either use your akbil or have a ticket (bilet). Tickets can be bought from the white fiber booths at major bus stops, from nearby shops (look for İETT otobüs bileti satılır) or from private sellers around the bus stops. In case of the latter, you’ll pay slightly more for your ticket.
The private buses don’t accept these tickets, but they do accept cash money. Just hand the conductor exact change or a small note and hop on. Most also accept akbil.

What Bus to Take

Most buses run from 06:00 until 23:00. Major bus stops like Taksim Square have route maps of the different lines, but the best way to find what bus you need, is to go to the website of the İETT.

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The most efficient and cheap way to get from a to b in Istanbul by public transportation is undoubtedly by metro, tram, funicular and/or ferry. These means of public transportation are very efficient, quick and punctual. Not in the least because they don’t suffer from Istanbul’s constantly clogged streets. In this article I focus on the vehicles with steel wheels and cover what lines you can take, how and where to catch them, their operating hours and fares.

Istanbul has 2 metro lines, 5 tram lines and 2 funiculars. For an overview, check this map of the Istanbul rail systems, which will open in a new window for your convenience. I won’t cover all these lines, because as a tourist you will probably only need and use (a combination of) the M1, M2, T1 and F1. For all of these lines I’ll mention the most important stops.

General Information

To get on a metro, tram or funicular you have to pass the turnstiles in order to reach the platform. To pass the turnstiles, you either need to buy a token (jeton) or use your pre-loaded akbil or İstanbul Kart. The price for all railway systems is TL 1,5. The vehicles are modern and air-conditioned.

The Aksaray-Airport (Havalimanı) Metro Line (M1)

Metro Sign

I already explained the best way to get from the airport to your hotel in Istanbul (or vica versa) in a previous article. But if you really insist to use public transportation and drag your suitcases along, this is the metro line to start with. It’s not a ‘real’ metro line since it runs both below and above ground, hence why it is called the ‘light metro’ or ‘light tramway’ (Hafif Tramvay). Keep in mind though that you will have to transfer to the T1 (see below) in Aksaray (the final stop) to reach Sultanahmet, and transfer again from the T1 to the F1 (see below) in Kabataş to reach Taksim. The transfer in Aksaray also means you’ll have to carry your suitcase(s) up and down some stairs.

• First Train: 06:00
• Last Train: 00:30
• Frequency: every 5 minutes; every 7,5 minutes on Sundays

The Şişhane-Atatürk Oto Sanayii Metro Line (M2)

This is the only real metro in Istanbul. It is a work in progress, with new stops being added regularly. Currently there are 10 stops. As a tourist, you’ll probably use the metro to go north from Taksim for shopping purposes. Get off in Osmanbey to reach Nişantası, in Şişli to visit the Cevahir and Profilo shopping centers or in Levent to browse around in the Metrocity & Akmerkez shopping centers. The last one requires a small taxi ride or walk to reach it.

• First Train: 06:15; 06:30 on Sundays
• Last Train: 00:30
• Frequency: every 4,5 minutes; every 7 minutes on Sundays

The Zeytinburnu-Kabataş Tram Line (T1)

For tourists, this is undoubtedly the most interesting line of all. Not in the least because it connects the historical part of Istanbul with the modern part of Istanbul by crossing the Galata Bridge.

It has stops like Laleli Üniversitesi (to reach the Süleymaniye Mosque), Beyazıt and Cemberlitaş (gates of the Grand Bazaar and famous hamam), Sultanahmet (plenty of sightseeing spots), Eminönü (Spice Market, New Mosque and Scenic Bosphorus Cruise & Kadıköy ferry dock), Karaköy (with connection to Tünel), Tophane (Istanbul Modern) and Kabataş (connection to Taksim via F1 or quick ferry or sea-bus dock for a visit to the Princes’ Islands).

• First Train: 06:00
• Last Train: 23:50
• Frequency: every 5 minutes

The Taksim-Kabataş Funicular (F1)

Furnicular connecting Taksim & Kabataş

This funicular, inaugurated in 2006, has been long-awaited and takes you up the steep hill from Kabataş to Taksim in only 150 seconds.

• First Train: 06:15; 06:30 on Sundays
• Last Train: 00:50; 01:20 on Fridays and Saturdays
• Frequency: every 5 minutes

Real Life Example

So, how to go from Sultanahmet to Taksim for example? Well, hop on the T1 and pay TL1,50. Maximum 10 minutes later, you’ll arrive at Kabataş. Transfer to the F1 and pay TL 1,50 if you use a token, or TL 0,75 if you use akbil and enjoy the 50% transfer discount. Summarized, this trip will take no more than 15 minutes and cost you in a worse case scenario TL 3 per person.

In other words, unless you’re traveling with a party of more than three, using the tram/funicular combination is not only quicker, but also cheaper than taking a taxi.

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The akbil electronic travel pass is definitely the best feature of the constantly improving Istanbul public transportation network. Akbil is short for ‘akıllı bilet‘, which means intelligent ticket. And that’s exactly what it is. It’s a basically a small stainless steel button in a plastic holder, together not bigger in size than any key on your keychain. Akbil serves as computerized fare tag which you can use for all public transportation except on a dolmuş or minibus. Although the akbil is slowly being phased out in favor of the new Istanbul Kart, it will remain popular for a long time and will save you both money and time.

The Benefits of Akbil

For starters it’s very convenient and easy to carry around since it fits on your keychain. It will save you time while getting on buses, trams, metros or ferries since you won’t have to look for a token or ticket sales office and stand in line to buy a jeton or bilet prior to hopping on the public transportation vehicle.

Secondly, it will also save you money. Not only do you get a 10% discount by using your akbil, the next five transits you make within a 120 minute period you get a 50% discount.

If you’re traveling with a party of two or more, there is technically no need to get more than one akbil. However, keep in mind that while everybody will still benefit from the basic 10% fare discount, only one will get the 50% transit fare discount. If you want to take the full advantage of akbil, it’s better to get one for every person.

Where and How to Get Akbil

Akbil sales point on Taksim Square

With the new Istanbul Kart surfacing, the amount of Akbil Sales Points (Akbil Satış Noktası) has unfortunately been dramatically reduced. The easiest way to obtain an electronic travel pass is to buy it at the busy bus stop on Taksim Square. Look for the blue and white kiosk that has the İETT logo and the text Akbil Satış Gişesi on top of it. You can’t miss really.

Once it’s your turn, hand the clerk TL 6 as the deposit and say akbil almak istiyorum (I would like to buy an akbil). He will hand you the travel pass and a receipt. Keep the receipt if you intend to return the akbil at the end of your stay in order to reclaim your deposit. That’s it, no forms or paperwork to be filled in. You of course still have to load it before you can use it.

How to Load and Recharge Your Akbil

Akbil Recharger

There are two ways to load or recharge your electronic travel pass: either at a akbil/ticket sales point, or by using one of the many akbil recharge machines located at most of the transit points. They come in different shapes and sizes.

The ones that recharge akbil or Istanbul Kart are most of the time built-in into a wall, while the rechargers that serve both travel passes and also provide tokens (jeton) are stand-alone rectangular machines.

Fortunately, the procedure to load your electronic travel pass is the same:

1. press your akbil firmly on the socket
2. insert a TL 10 or TL 20 banknote in the machine
3. once the money has been accepted, press your akbil again firmly on the socket to add the respective credits

How to Use Akbil

Typical turnstile

Prior to boarding a tram, metro, funicular, ferry or sea-bus you have to pass turnstiles. At the right-hand side of every turnstile, you’ll find a socket just underneath a small display. Press your akbil firmly on the socket until you hear a double beep sound and the screen shows your destination and the fare that has been deducted. At this point the turnstile will allow you to pass through. Repeat this process for as many people travel with you on the same travel pass.

If you’re using a bus or the nostalgic tram, then look for an orange machine with a socket and display. It is mostly located next to the driver seat and press your akbil firmly on the socket for every passenger in your party.

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The brand new Istanbul Card (İstanbul Kart) was proudly introduced in the spring of 2009 by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality as a card with which you will be able to pay for all your Istanbul transportation, cultural and entertainment activities. In a first phase, the İstanbul Kart will replace the currently used akbil as a pre-paid public transportation pass. However, don’t rush to go get such a card, since the implementation doesn’t go as smooth as expected.

What Is the Istanbul Card?

The İstanbul Kart is a RFID (Radio-frequency identification) card which fits perfectly in your wallet since it has the dimensions of a regular credit card. It is a pre-paid and rechargeable card, which can be used to cover fares and entrance fees. At first it will enable you to cover any kind of transportation fees, including bus, tram, metro, funicular, ferry and sea-bus fares – yes, even your taxi and parking expenses.

You can also look at the İstanbul Kart as an electronic ticket. In the future the card will also pay for the entrance fees of movie theaters, cultural venues and/or museums. The latter is of course unnecessary is you have a Müzekart.

How Does the Istanbul Card Work?

Istanbul Kart with the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in Istanbul

You obtain an Istanbul Card (see below) and make sure there is enough money on it. Remember, it’s a pre-paid card, not a credit card. When you have to pay a fee of some kind for your transportation or leisure activities, you place it in the proximity of a fare point, and the amount due is automatically deducted from your card. In ideal circumstances you don’t even have to take the card out of your wallet. And for transportation purposes you will pay the same reduced rate as you currently do with your akbil.

Where Can I Get an Istanbul Card?

Currently you can only obtain an Istanbul Card at the IETT Akbil/Ticket sales point in Mecidiyeköy. No clue where that is? No need to worry! Just keep on reading and I’ll explain why.

Why You Should Keep Your Akbil!

Although not new, the idea to have one card to pay for the majority of your Istanbul transportation, cultural or leisure expenses is brilliant. However, the wide-spread implementation of the technology to deduct the fees due automatically has proven to be a painfully slow process. The municpality implements it route by route. With hundreds of public transportation lines throughout the city of Istanbul, this may take a while.

So for the time being, I strongly suggest you to stick or obtain an akbil to cover your public transportation fares and leave the Istanbul Card for what it is until all transportation means and lines are equipped to handle it.

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The Turkish Grand Prix will take place on June 7 2009 and is the seventh Grand Prix of the 2009 Formula One World Championship. The venue for this Formula One motor race, which debuted on August 25 2005, is Istanbul Park (Istanbul Parkı), also known as Istanbul Racing Circuit. Drivers and spectators alike praise this state-of-the art counter-clockwise racetrack. Formula 1 supremo Bernie Ecclestone has even called it “the best race track in the world”. If you are a Formula 1 fan (and happen to be in Istanbul), this is an event you simply can’t afford to miss.

Istanbul Park Race Track Characteristics

Istanbul Park racetrack layout.

The newly built Istanbul Park race circuit is located in Pendik on the Asian side of Istanbul. It was constructed by the famous German civil engineer Hermann Tilke, who had a hand in the Austrian A1-Ring changes, previously built the Sepang International Circuit in Malaysia and the Bahrain International Circuit of Bahrain. The circuit is one of only three circuits on the Formula One Grand Prix calendar that runs counter-clockwise, the others being the Interlagos circuit and the Singapore Street Circuit.

The Istanbul Park racetrack follows the contours of the land, hence runs over four different ground levels. The circuit is 5.338 km long, with a start/finish straight of 650 m and a total of 16 corners. In particular Turn Eight (a fast, sweeping corner with four apexes) has been appraised by the drivers. Also notable is Turn One, a sharp downhill left-hander immediately after the front straight.

The Istanbul Park racetrack has a total capacity of 155.000 spectators, of which 25.000 can find a seat on the main grandstand.

Istanbul Park Driver Quotes

“It is an amazing track to drive, with so many different challenges, and overtaking is possible. The circuit is pretty wide, which always helps when you are trying to pass. It is a very physically demanding circuit, all the fast corners, such as Turn Eight which is awesome and flat out, and the heat place a big demand on the drivers.” ~ Lewis Hamilton, McLaren

“I am looking forward to Turkey, which will always have a special significance for me, as it was in Istanbul that I got my first ever Grand Prix victory. I love the track and the city. Istanbul Park is a really great track and everyone talks about Turn Eight, which is definitely one of the best corners of the season. I like this corner, and it is really challenging.” ~ Felipe Massa, Ferrari

The grandstand of the Turkish Formula One Grand Prix in Istanbul Park, Turkey.

“The track is great to drive, with some sections that are really on the limit and what you want to race on as a driver, Turn Eight in particular. We race anti-clockwise and this also adds a challenge. The final factor is that the track is one of the fastest circuits on the calendar, with long fast corners.” ~ Fernando Alonso, McLaren

“The Turkish Grand Prix has quickly become one of my favorite races on the F1 calendar. The track layout is excellent with a challenging combination of long straights, tight hairpins and the very high-speed Turn Eight. The changes in elevation also contribute to making it a fun circuit for the drivers. There are some really good overtaking opportunities at Turn One and Turn Three. You really need to consciously push hard all the way round and use the track’s camber to your full advantage.” ~ Jenson Button, Honda

Previous Winners of the Turkish Formula One Grand Prix

2009 – Jenson Button (Brawn GP)
2008 – Felipe Massa (Ferrari)
2007 – Felipe Massa (Ferrari)
2006 – Felipe Massa (Ferrari)
2005 – Kimi Räikkönen (McLaren-Mercedes)

Getting To Istanbul Park

Istanbul Park is located in Pendik on the Asian side of Istanbul, around 55 km east of the city centre (Taksim). It is adjacent to the newly constructed Sabiha Gökçen International Airport and is surrounded by forests and fields.

Although it is close to the junction of Kurtköy on the north side of the TEM Motorway, linking Istanbul to Ankara, I strongly advice neither to go by car nor to hire a car for the occasion. On normal days, traffic in Istanbul is already hectic and clogged, so you can imagine what it will look like on a race day.

The best alternative is to take a sea bus from Kabataş to Pendik, where you can hop on special shuttle busses. On race days, there are also municipal buses available various points in and around Istanbul, including Ataturk Airport, Taksim Square, Mecidiyeköy, Kadıköy, Bostancı and Pendik.

[Photo Credit: Will Pittenger]

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I wrote in an earlier post that a minority of Istanbul’s taxi drivers are not shy of hustling tourists. So I thought it would be helpful to provide my readers with a cab fare list for trips from Sultanahmet or Taksim to the most common Istanbul tourist destinations or the airports. This way you’ll be even better equipped to argue with the taxi driver in case you feel overcharged for the ride.

How to Use This List

The list below is based on taxi rides I took myself and the fare I personally paid for it (last updated on May 3rd 2009). However, please keep in mind that taxi fares aren’t an exact science! I was able to tell them the shortest way, yes even teach them a shortcut here or there. Have said that, they are a good indication and your fare should be more or less the same, give or take a lira or two. If the fare you have to pay is more than 15% off the fare listed here, then you may start questioning your driver.

Current Istanbul Taxi Fares

• The starting or flat rate is TL 2 during the daytime, TL 3 during the nighttime (from midnight to 6 a.m.).
• Every kilometer, TL 1,3 is added to the cab fare during the daytime, TL 1,95 at night.
• Standing still in traffic shouldn’t increase the fare. However, if the taxi stands still for more than three minutes, a waiting fee of TL 0,25 per minute will be added.

Istanbul Taxi Fares Per Destination

I suggest you print out this list and keep it on you during your stay in Istanbul. In case you had to pay much more for a certain ride than stated above, please do let me know by leaving a comment.

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By far the most convenient (but not always the quickest) way to get around in Istanbul is by taxi. They are plentiful, operate day and night, take up to four persons, are compared to the US or Europe fairly cheap, and they can be easily hailed on the street or found at taxi ranks. Unfortunately, a small percentage of the taxi drivers are either lunatics or con-artists. Luckily most are neither. But just in case, you may want to keep on reading and be well prepared before you get into a taxi in Istanbul.

• 

  Official taxi in Istanbul, Turkey.

  Official Taxis – Only take official taxis. They are bright yellow and have a sign on the roof with the word taksi on it. Furthermore, their taxi plate number (and sometimes company logo) should be clearly visible on the front doors and the roof. And most importantly, all official taxis have digital meters!

• No Meter, No Go – Always insist to switch on the meter! Some of the previously mentioned con-artists may come up with an excuse that the meter is broken or offer to drive for a flat fee. Accept neither, get out of the taxi and look for another one. Even if the taxi driver suddenly changes his mind. Also, if at any point during the ride the meter isn’t running, get out. If the driver protests, muttering the word polis may do wonders.

• Find The Taxi Meter – Whereas in Europe or the US taxi meters are mounted in such a way that they are clearly visible for the passengers, in Istanbul they are more often than not well hidden behind the gearshift. This makes it virtually impossible to see it from the backseat. Locals use the reflection in the front door window to monitor it. Since you’re probably not experienced in reading mirror images, lean over to check the meter at the start of the ride and at certain intervals. This is not considered rude. On the contrary, you’ll gain the taxi driver’s respect for knowing the ropes.

• 

  An Istanbul taxi meter showing the daytime (gündüz) fare.

  Day & Night Rates – Upon entering the taxi, a flat or starting rate will appear. After that, the rate will increment every 400 meters. Check out the current cab rates and taxi fares between popular Istanbul tourist destinations here. When the taxi is not moving (at traffic lights or while being stuck in traffic), the fare should remain more or less the same! During the day, the word gündüz should appear onscreen at regular intervals. At night (between midnight and 6 am), the word gece will appear. Since the night-rate is 50% higher than the day-rate, make sure the gündüz rate is applied when appropriate! This too is a popular tourist scam.

• Bridge or Highway Toll – In case you take a taxi to cross either of the Bosphorus bridges or drive on the TEM highway, toll (not more than TL 4) has to be paid. The taxi driver will pay that for you, but will add this to the fare.

• No Tipping – Unless the taxi driver helped you load and unload your luggage, he won’t expect a tip. If you’re happy with his performance, you can roundup the fare to the nearest convenient figure. Some taxi drivers may claim to be out of small money, hence try to make a few extra liras. Just stand your ground and make him go change the money somewhere if you feel he’s deceitful.

• Say What? – Most taxi drivers speak very little to no English at all. Having said that, chances are that your knowledge of Turkish is similar to his English skills. It’s therefore not a bad idea to have the exact name and street of your destination written down on a piece of paper.

• Seemingly Lost – Taxi drivers are not too streetwise. And in their defense, Istanbul is a giant city and expecting taxi drivers to know every single street by heart is unfair. It is therefore not unusual that taxi drivers are unfamiliar with the exact location of lesser known places. You may find him ask you, other drivers or pedestrians along the way. If you have a phone number on your destination, he’ll be glad to call them for precise directions.

• 

  Istanbul taxis may take alternative roads to avoid traffic jams.

  Unsafe Driving – Time is money. It’s a cliché, but it’s still very true for Istanbul’s taxi drivers. They may take alternative (and a tad longer and more expensive) roads when the main roads are congested. That’s perfectly fine and will benefit both parties. What they shouldn’t do though is race through the narrow streets. If at any time you feel unsafe, you tell the driver yavaş gidin (’yavash gidin’ pronounced) or just daha yavaş lütfen. Both mean more or less the same and order him to slow down. If he doesn’t obey your wishes, just get out at the first occasion that arises.

Now don’t get me wrong! I’ve been using taxis in Istanbul for over four years now, and I can count the times I felt unsafe or was hustled on both hands. Taxis in Istanbul are a cheap, reliable and more comfortable than most of the public transportation available.

Of course, if you had any good or bad experiences with Istanbul’s taxis, I’d love to hear your stories!

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The best way to absorb a city is of course by exploring it on foot. In addition, some of Istanbul’s ancient streets are so small a car barely fits in it. And with Istanbul’s huge traffic jams in the city center, it is often even a time-saver.
But before you rush out of your hotel to hit the streets, go over my pedestrian safety tips – they may save your life!

Car Is King in Istanbul

Car-free zones are rather scarce – the Princes’ Islands being a huge exception to the rule. In recent years efforts have been made to create semi-pedestrian zones in the city center as well. The most famous ones are undoubtedly Sultanahmet Square and the area surrounding the Spice Bazaar in the historical part of Istanbul; and Istiklal Caddesi, Taksim Square and Ortaköy in the modern part of Istanbul. Nevertheless, keep in mind that the car still rules in Istanbul.

Istanbul Pedestrian Safety Tips

• unless you’re on a pavement or pedestrian crossing, you have little to no traffic rights as a pedestrian
• unless a pedestrian crossings is controlled by traffic lights, it is considered street decoration and traffic won’t stop for it
• even if the pedestrian traffic light shows a green light, don’t cross until you’re sure traffic has come to a complete standstill
• don’t start crossing the road when the pedestrian light is about to turn red as drivers often jump lights
• always use pedestrian overpasses and underpasses on main roads – no matter what you see the locals doing
• a one-way street is no guarantee vehicles will only come from one direction – always look for traffic coming from both sides
• public transportation (with the exception of metros and trams) doesn’t always halt at special designed stops and sometimes even let people get off in the middle of the street. Double-check for traffic (especially motorcycles) while getting off
• although Istanbul is among the safer world cities, ask local advice before exploring streets outside the usual tourist areas
• in crowded streets, beware of pick pocketing
• never walk in unfamiliar streets or backstreets after dark – Istanbul taxis come rather cheap after all

Bear these rules in mind, and you’ll be doing just fine. And don’t let this list scare you either, walking Istanbul’s crowded streets is very pleasant – especially in spring and autumn, when the weather isn’t too hot.

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